So you're saying the injectors are not electrically stuck, and I very much doubt any are mechanically (suddenly) stuck or you'd have said something like #1 and #2 plugs are wetter, and now you're left with compression being the remaining ingredient you're unaware of.

My first thought to begin the thread was AMM, but I could return to that if all that cranking and cylinder washdown has lost you compression, changing the game. New FPR is no guarantee of good; several folks have attested. I don't know who the "some" are that say you need to replace a spark plug once it has been wet, but be reminded, "replace" doesn't always mean exchange. I hope you didn't have half of your intake manifold gasket fall apart, well, actually that would be better than a bad AMM since you don't have a spare to swap in at the moment. You can always try to measure the AMM output (white/red) at rest (key on) and see that it responds to a bit of air wafted toward its intake. Should be in the neighborhood of a volt and a half. Of course that "good" reading doesn't affirm the AMM is good, but a bad reading would tell you something useful.

There's no use in Volvo interrupting fuel pumps at WOT cranking, as residual pressure maintained behind the FPR diaphragm will keep dumping fuel for much longer than normal cranking times. This I know by using LH2.4's OBD to cycle the injectors while monitoring the rail pressure.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

A woman marries a man expecting he will change, but he doesn't. A man marries a woman expecting that she won't change, and she does.