Just couldn't help myself to a $500 mechanic special, could I? Good shape but has clear coat issue but who cares about that...
Anyway, I love to shade tree work on great older cars. I have learned alot form BB.

I have searched the forum about 240 no starts and seem to be getting close...

Issue at hand is 1989 240 does not start but cranks well. Crank position sensor swapped with know good, fender 25A fuse and connection good, AMM good, gas in tank.

Car will sometimes run at idle for short time and then dies.

I suspect ECU which is #556 (cali car).
If the I jump fuel pump relay socket 30 to 87/2, the pumps turn on but no start....
If I put relay back into socket, and then jump fuse 4 to 6, car starts great and revs nice, but if the 4 to 6 jumper is removed it will then slowly die.

Intank pump and main pump run and verified by removing fuse 4 and left side jump to 6 and right side jump to 6.

I have a 92 740 turbo. I want to take its ECU out to check on the 89 240. I ASSUME THIS IS OK??

If I need a ECU, which ## options will work for #556 swap. I will look at pick and pull and ebay.

Thanks in adance for BB community

Rob
Winters, Cali
92 745T
90 MB 300e

"Car will sometimes run at idle for short time and then dies."
Does it do this with the AMM disconnected?



Have you tried another fuel relay?


Does your 556 have a mustard label? If so it is prone to the same failures (no ground to the ECU/Fuel relay) as the infamous pink 561.
Try providing a ground to the blue/green wire of the fuel relay, if it runs the ECU is the problem.

Other ECU's 556 white label and 933 will also control EGR.

Dan

If you do need an ECU, ALL the LH 2.4 ECUs will function, turbo or not, surprisingly mostly without overt problems (in my experience). But you have EGR circuitry in the 556. Best substitute might be 946 out of 740 or 940 non-turbo.

you guys are awesome....

Yes it is mustard label

The AMM is good and swapped with known good as well. I have swapped with known good relay.

I got a cheap beeline on a ECU from 1994 940 w/ egr #0280000954

I wonder if that would work??? Or I will swap ECU with my 92 740T

954 is an LH 2.4 turbo ECU with EGR. It is said to run a non-turbo OK, but I have not tried it. A very trustworthy pal told me he did and it was "fine". A 946 is an updated EGR LH 2.4 that should be a direct replacement for non-turbos. Let me know if you need one.

I directly emailed you about price for your 946 ECU?

Grab the 954. There should be no harm in trying the ECU from your 740... I'm running a 933 in my 240 w/o EGR to no ill effect. Granted, I can't claim that the opposite will be true, but in general...

Regards,
Zach

I back probed the blue/green wire to relay to ground and car started and ran fine.

I can get the ECU 954 for $40 bucks today, so will try that 1st.

I do have EGR, so ECU is compatable.

ARE THERE ANY SOLDER JOINTS TO RESOLDER IN EXISTING ECU?? MAKE FIX THIS ONE??
I will check FAQ's

OBI codes pulled are 213, 221, 223, 312. Must be related to no ECU ground.

I assume this will go away after new ECU after I clear them.

Getting closer...

It ain't a solder joint that fails it is a "hybrid chip" which was sent to the Volvo engineers from the future by Skynet. Luckily, cooler heads prevailed and an updated hybrid chip was installed in the white label ecu's as well as some enterprising folks designing a work-around that does NOT involve sacrificing a chicken or other barnyard animal (although it does involve giving your vehicle a SECOND fuel pump relay).

Mike

thx Onkel

...will I need to go with the green FP relay with a ECU954 from a 94 940T, or will white FPR be ok? If you know

Is it wrong to fix with a permanent wire from blue/green relay socket to ground??

If you want a work around fix that maintains safety related issues try this.

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/812751/220/240/260/280/ecu_561_failure_bypass_fix.html

Otherwise get the ECU, that is a good price.
Dan

With a working ECU no further fix is needed.

Running a perm ground for the FPR would not be good safety wise. I forget the details but if the ECU does not get spark, it cuts the ground to FPR so that the fuel pump stops pumping...like in a roll-over.

Follow up....

Using cars existing ECU#556 mustard label; fuel relay green/blue wire jumped to ground >>> car starts and runs great......Check engine light comes on >>> codes 213, 221, 223 and 312 come up. I checked the OBI codes for these and they are a variety of injection items.

so next...

I installed the just bought ECU #954.... Car starts and runs but not so great... little mis-idle and hesitation with pedal push. Check engine code 113 comes up = o2S wire fault.

Soooo what do BB folks think? the next step is to check O2s lead voltage swings and maybe change O2s.

or maybe the ECU 954 was not the right choice?

to be continued...
thks BB

Start simple:

Clean the O2 sensor connection
Unplug and plug back in the ECU
Clear the codes
Drive it and see if they reappear.

I am not familiar with that ECU but the standard LH 2.4 is highly sensitive to that code and it can mean other things.

Mike

will do,

Does the ECU need to be mounted for grounding? Or can it dangel. The base is aluminum so I assume need not be mounted.

asking just to avoid with quick back and forth ECU swaps

Ok, just replugged new ECU and O2 black single lead by wiper motor.

Samething....slight rough idle, hesitation with quick revs. Runs worser than with orginal ECU

Check Engine Codes = 1-1-3

The voltage on black O2 lead is stable at 0.03V

Next is to swap out O2 sensor....I guess - I got some from Mercedes 190e (Bosch 13942 ford GT)

ah, $500 bucks - tell me good deal to keep going.

Now the dumb question....

Does the crank positin sensor need to be bolted to bell housing....i.e. ground thru bolt?

I did not bolt the CPS down yet since I pulled my good CPS off my 740t, and the bolt access is tight, so I left it in the hole.

So can the CPS just be in the hole without bolt?? Just for quick checks?

CPS...it depends on a pretty tight air-gap tolerance so I would think this is a bad idea.

I sounds like you might have the right O2 sensor, but do a forum search to verify.

Just for grins, you might want to do the plug, unplug a few times with the AMM connector (make sure the ignition is off)...you never know.

Mike

FIXED!!!!

The CPS should be bolted down!!! O2 sensor voltage now swings and check engine light stays off.

I bet since the CPS is a magnet pick up, it must have been pushed and pulled in and out of the bell housing hole. How studid art thou

Anyone what a 89 240 for $1000? HA, no really maybe

So I got $500 in plus $40 for ECU. Needs DNV fees of $100.

Thanks BB!

Dang now I see a 94 940 sedan on Craiglslist for $1200 obo. Gotta get that one too - addicted

congrats on getting it up and running. if you're serious about selling, we're interested. located in sacramento. will send PM with contact info.

Be careful as they are easier to buy than to sell...and it is addictive. I have brought all of the following back from neglect over the years:

1976 244 DL, 4-speed (m40?)...spent 7 years in a field until a buddy needy a paper delivery vehicle and the two of us got it running...he decided he needed an auto so gave it to me. Taught me about the alternator ground wire the hard way.

1979 245 DL, BW55, aka the Turd Wagon...Bought four $400 as a non-running car. Popped a fuel pump relay in, spun the fuses, jumped it and drove it from the site. Car had well over 330K miles...150K of them mine...when I traded it to my painter for work he never finished.

1981 245 GL... bought as non-running for $300, wiggling the harness got it home. Two weeks after the harness was replaced and the initial shake-down done, a tree limb took it out.

1990 760 Turbo Wagon...Bought at a car auction where no on-site work was allowed nor would they do any more than start it, drive it forward and then back into its slot. Driven 300 miles home with no chase car but 30 lbs of tools and spares. Lots of electrical issues all solved with no money and some troubleshooting. Collapsing turbo hose drove me batty. Wife sold it while I was working in Iraq.

Current 1990 244 DL...learning to hate the rust belt. Needed a car quick after returning from work in Iraq so I paid too much at $1300. Verifiable low miles. Lots of redneck engineering. Brake issues driving me nuts...mostly due to rust issues.

That does not cover all the old Japanese and BMW motorcycles, '70's and '80's BMW's, Classic Saabs and the occasional Mercedes that i have worked on for others to supplement the beer money.

Mike

BAD news. Car failed Cali smog.....and got towed for driving it Non Op with DMV
after bringing it back from smog shop....

Well, do I just hang it up...walk away and leave it at tow co.

...or lets look at smog numbers:
Failed on NO>>>gross polluter

HC 15mph max 81 tested 31 pass
25mph max 63 tested 21 pass

CO max 0.52 tested 0.02 pass
max 0.43 tested 0.02 pass

NO max 554 tested 2367 gross polluter fail
max 511 tested 1696 fail


ahhhhh

That is a call only you can make. It sounds from an earlier post that you were trying to flip the car and if that is the case, you have to look at it as a financial decision. What can you get for a freshly smogged 22-year-old compact sedan? Around here that is $1000-1500...maybe $2000K if is really cherry. If you use the fruit-and-nut adjustment factor I am guessing you could get $500-$1000 more than we do in Chicagoland.

The last car I had to get out of impound (2005 and these are Oklahoma prices) was a $150 tow fee and $45 a day storage. I am guessing you would have to have it towed to the house again. Would you be allowed to drive to the testing facility after you made repairs?

High NOx but no other issues is almost always an exhaust leak, vac leak or failed cat. The first two are pretty easy but time consuming to track down and rarely cost more than $40 to fix. If you have an exhaust manifold gasket leak it could cost CONSIDERABLY more if you break one or more studs off in the process. The cat can cost as little as $100-200 installed if you can use a generic installed by just about any old muffler shop.

Me, if I lived in California...I would probably take my lumps and leave it at impound unless I was fixing it up for me to drive and I absolutely loved the car.

As a point of curiosity, you did not have the car tested with old (more than 6 months) gas, did you?

Mike

thanks 'uncle you do two'

All the same thoughts on my end about should I stay or should I go.
I can go dowm to DMV to get a temp driving permit to avoid a tow back to my place.
I filled up with fresh gas too, dang out $30 nucks too - ha

Will tell ya one thing, and I should have fixed it, when I replaced the end cracked vacuum hose from intake manifold to fuel pressure regulator, the inside of hose smelled from gas - but I didn't act one thinking she ran fine and let's go test anyway.

I am gonna go get her, switch out FPReg, and then check other stuff. I took out the air box Thermoswitch to keep hot air from coming in.

I got a buyer if it passes. Our best family/friends' kid just started driving. In fact they where the ones taking to get it smogged (Dad is a correction officer and the CHP even would let it slide!). She just crashed & totaled her 98 Honda accord (someone pulled out in front > T bone crash > air bag DID NOT go off but should have > older bags may be expired))

I rather see this kid in a Volvo than another car, plus family is strapped for money and know little about cars. My 11 yr kid will be driving in the car every once and a while too.

Take car Uncle