1989 242 DL NA (non-turbo) with functioning odometer currently showing 144k miles. Written records unavailable. Sticker on timing belt cover says timing belt changed at 92,803 in 1999.

Car has been HORRIBLY maintained, with paint peeling on roof, hood, and trunk almost to bare metal, if not bare metal. Automatic transmission fluid was chocolate brown, though tranny shifts almost flawlessly. Power steering fluid low and bottles in trunk, suggesting leak. Windshield wiper lever broken. Coolant level low. Worn tires. One wheel's lug nuts seized. Pine needle leaves present under the car and inside the engine bay/firewall area. Rear brake wheel cylinders leaking brake fluid, about 1/2 quart per week. Surprisingly, it passed California smog on the first try, oil was clean and front brakes are new/newer. The alternator looks new, too.

I want to wait another 10k miles (for 60k interval) before changing timing belt, front seals, and water pump. Given the poor maintenance history and condition of the car, is this a good idea? Do timing belts wear out after 15 years or is it more the mileage that's the wear and tear factor?

Timing belt can wait until you fix the brakes, this is a priority.

Dan

Thanks for your response. I repaired everything faulty on the car, except the transmission fluid filter and timing belt/water pump. There are no leaks in the cooling system and the hoses and fan belts look okay. Am I being penny wise and pound foolish by waiting 10k more miles to change the timing belt/water pump?

Not if the belt looks fine and the pump is not leaking. Same car had the original pump in it and I replaced it 150 K at the next belt change as PM. I use the T-belts for 80k now

But I suppose it really is 60.

I agree the timing belt interval is a bit conservative if the seals have held the oil off of it.

So far those belts I've changed which I originally installed have held to 100K. Most recent maintenance replacement I made was at 104K. Those I've replaced because they failed were belts which came with the car, and were exposed to cam seal and crank seal leaks.

Of course my experience only represents 15 years, 11 240's, and roughly 600K miles among them. Just anecdotal. We keep them until they are taken by deer, t-bone, raging floodwaters, or salt.

I think synthetic oil helps in that marginally missed oil change intervals don't subject the cam to increased friction. I pull the cover and examine the back of the belt for the micro cracks that make it just distinguishable from the belt in the new box. Never saw one with teeth missing and still timing the engine, so I wouldn't use that criterion.

Summing up, keeping the friction down at the cam, with good oil maintenance, and keeping that oil off of the timing belt should make them last a lot longer than the guessed-at suggested replacement interval. A classic case of YMMV.


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

What's the definition of a will? It's a dead giveaway.

Thanks for your reply. I appreciate everyone's responses, and in particular yours. In another thread I started this morning, I asked about using motor oil vs. fogging oil down the spark plug holes for long-term storage. Any thoughts about the difference, if, any, especially whether synthetic motor oil down the spark plug holes is more advantageous over dino oil or fogging oil down there? Thanks!

I'm flattered you'd give weight to my recommendation, but I really have no experience in (purposely) storing cars. Yes, I have one in particular I may learn later what I should have done, so I'm paying attention to the advice you're getting, but we don't have any Toyotas or anything so we drive 240s all year. I keep one out of the salt, but that's the extent of the seasonal storage.

My main pleasure taken from synthetic is the extended oil change interval and its resilience to procrastinating drivers with "busy" lives. The flame traps stay clean. None of that coke-looking burned oil clogging things. And yes, I think the top end receives better lube for a longer time.

I've run a tank of 5-year-old fuel without any prep. No Sta-bil. My luck is not your best example, I know.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.

Thanks, Art.

Others recommended that I fill the tank up completely, which I'm doing one jerry can at a time. I read elsewhere to buy 100-110 octane aviation fuel, but that seems to have lead, which is not legal to put in cars and destroys catalytic converters.

By the way, I'm in Kalifornia, and the only gas I can find is "reformulated" with 5.7% ethanol. I suppose there's some consolation that it's not 10%/E-10.

Hi,

Yes. Keep the fuel pump submerged to prevent it becomes rusted inside. I think that's the best way to preserve it unless its a new shelf item that has never been used before.

A parts guy at my local store advised me long time ago (when I was a teenager with my two-door CVCC Honda) that cars actually fare better being used rather than leave it in storage. Many years later I realised that is still true. Look at how many of these deteriorated at used car dealers.

I would rather use the protection that my Volvo provides no matter how "off" it looks. On the plus side most Volvos are big cars which give the impression "don't mess up with me" on the road. But that's me.

Remove the upper cover and inspect the belt. I picked up an 88 240 in 2002 with only 48k on it. All the accessory belts were new so I assumed the T-belt was replaced as well. Checked it at 80K a few yrs later. It was the original volvo belt, shiny with alot of cracking but all teeth intact!!!. Replaced it very soon after.