Hi there and every where it seems.

I have seen several of your posts. I wondered for a split second if your related to Frank Sinatra and you are "spreading the news!" I am just funning with Ya!

You have Art's attention and that's a good thing let me tell you!

Before you are done you are going to know a whole lot more about that voltmeter.

He needs you to use the DC setting. It's the one with dots and two horizontal lines not the squiggly one. That is an AC setting for house voltages.

He wants to verify you are getting power from the switch that lights up other components as well.

I want to inject a little "tell" of my own here and it's about the fuel relay, that you keep mentioning.
That relay is suppose to run the pumps as a pre-pressurization feature and then it turns off. My '91 has so I assume yours does too!

I notice in another post you bought starting fluid. Wise choice!

What "may not" be happening? You are suspicious about fuel because of dry plugs. I am too!
Are the pumps running while cranking or continuing to run after that!

I like spraying it into vacuum port, or ahead of the AMM and crank the engine. Have you checked the snorkel tube for cracks or loosness? Might be a good time to see how dirty the throttle body is?

If the engine comes to life it confirms spark plugs firing but some fuel did arrive.

Art's is electrical troubleshooting, mine is more crude and smelly! 😷

Going back to Art method, The ICU and the ECU needs to see a signal from either the CPS or a hall sensor in the distributor for it to stay turned on!
Position II of the ignition switch powers up both CU's but only only a timing circuit. I don't know if the timing is in the relay or the ECU.
The ICU does signal the ECU and Fire the plugs though! The CPS signal is in all this mix as well!

It appears that you are getting spark from the coil as you have said it many times. I will say that what I said above is working and you should be hearing the pumps running as you crank for about one second after you stop cranking. Listen carefully as it's not easy.

The way around fuel pumps is to put a jumper wire in the fuse panel from fuses 4 & 6. Art has pictures on his web site Cleanflametrap.com.
This will bypass anything to do with that relay so fuel is "at the ready" if those injectors open.

The starting fluid bypasses the closed injectors, by the way!
If it runs on the starting fluid there is no need to do the following. You see the wise choice now, huh?

So, if there are no hits this leaves two things spark or its the timing of them there.

You can have spark at the coil wire but how about to a spark plug? You know a spare one shoved into the end of one wire of any cylinder of your choice. Lay one side of the spark plug on a bare grounding point of the engine somewhere as look for a nice fat bluish flash in the tip.

You need to verify that the rotor button and distributor cap, the other half of the ignition system is doing its thing is all I am saying!

If you got spark and it just sputtered and popped you are either lean on fuel or the timing is off!

Arts reason for you to look for the cam to be turning. Now it means you need to check where it is in relation to Pistons and spark.

That's another series of posts!

I hope I put an answer in there somewhere.

I am trying to shift you out of a circle that I think you are traveling in desperation from seeing the relay and spark that's not telling you a complete story of operation.

If that, Makes any sense!

Phil