Hi Sean

I would not recommend that you DO NOT drive around with the pads reversed.
You should be able to pop the piston out sitting right there in the driveway.

If it's going to move at all, you want to do sitting still. That is a long ways to move the piston and will take several pumps to get up to pressure. Besides the pistons rust could cut the seal and fluid blow by or past and create a mess.

In an attempt, to address the problem of the passenger side caliper seizing up more often, than the left caliper ... I write it off to the fact that the caliper is the farthest away from the master cylinder or at the end of the hydraulic system.
This becomes a collection point for impurities like trash from old rubber brake lines and moisture.

It is like in a factory with a piped compressed air system that have long pipe runs to several branch outlets.

We will install "drops" of pipe to create a column for a water trap at the lowest points on purpose.
Moisture in the compressors warm air will seek an colder area and settle to the lowest point of travel due to gravity.

Using my theory again, it does not surprise me to see that it's the outside piston being the one that gets stuck the most.
I think it's due to the mass of metal on that side of the caliper, of which, is exposed more to weather elements or coolness outside of the car. Probably the last half side to dry off after a rain too!

I had the same caliper stick twice.
Within six to eight months, while still under a one year warranty, it stuck again!
I was lucky... I think?

I had to blame it on the rebuilder and from what I read on here, it's a common occurrence.
There must be a lot of pitted housings out there or they don't change the Pistons?

Luck of the draw, so it pays to keep the papers on the warranty.

I bet the shops get nicer treatment from vendors ...but who eats the labor?
I so seldom deal with the shops so I have no idea on something so routine.

Doing your own work saves us twice in these cases.
(:)
Phil