Reference this photo:

http://s96.photobucket.com/user/jlandin/media/boat/engine%20swap/IMG_0058.jpg.html

If you follow the coolant return line back from the pump you will see that it's anchored to the engine just below the 4th freeze plug. You could take it loose there and it will give you some freedom to re-seat the pump connection without taking the whole pump loose.

Some things to watch out for:

Is the bracket that bolts to the pump nice and perpendicular to the tube so that when you tighten the bolt/nut it pushes the tube well into the pump?

Is the end of the tube corroded where the O-ring slides on? If so, you may need to smear some sealant, like RTV or whatever, on the tube first to kinda "fill the pockets" and then slide the O-ring onto the tube.

Some of the aftermarket pumps have horrible castings that are quite rough where the O-ring seats. If that's the case you might have to smear a tiny bit of RTV in there also. Plus, when the RTV is wet, it provides sort of a slippery surface so that the seal doesn't roll back when you push the tube in. If you don't smear RTV inside the pump, it might help to use some Special Purpose Insertion Technology (SPIT) on the O-ring.


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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)