Hi,

I got a manual pedal box from a 1980 242 to swap into my auto 86, and it doesn't have or I lost the clutch pedal tension spring on it. Do I need this?

Thanks,

Mike

I have refrained from commntn' so far.

the way the Pics on seem to work here I just got a View of what you originally meant by the Clutch Pedal Tension Spring. Just this time saw that on-the-pedal-assmbly-spring

So I just want to clarify.

I had assumed that you meant the spring that was attached under the car--and held the clutch fork away, giving a feel for the play, but I did not offer a response.

the reason: early 240s has a clutch pedal system set-up that the "free play" was judged by depressing the pedal---desired play at the pedal was 1/4 to 1 inch.

Later, I have both an 80...Play judged as above. And an 87, in which the Play is the Reverse. you LIFT the clutch pedal to find the Play.

How the "pivots" changed to make that happen, I never pursued.

But it may effect your installation

And, I am not clear as to what year that Reversal took place.

Was it when the M47 was introduced---in 87.

If or Not this applies...I cannot say. As for some reason I get a glimpse of the on-pedal spring, which seems to be the OP's original question.

tx and Cheers

In a word--no. The tension spring on my 1980 245 has been broken for tens of thousands of miles with no ill effects. I've put over 175k miles on the clutch the previous owner had installed. Of course it means you need to check release bearing clearance from below. -- Dave

Mine's been V8 powered since 1996 - cable actuated clutch. No spring for 21 years.

Michael Y -- I'm curious as to how you set up the cable. That's my next task with the Olds F85 3.5L V8 powered / Camaro T5 trans 245 I'm re-inventing -- originally built it with the Olds Hydramatic in 1989 in a '76 265. It's now in a '93 245 auto body. I figured to anchor the cable end to a bracket behind the fork and use the sheath to actuate the fork and make adjustments. I have both cable and hydraulic pedals. Another alternative is to buy a hydraulic system (Datsun 510 master, slave and flex hose can be purchased new for under $75). Can't make up my mind which way to go. The clutch is an Olds coil spring cover. Any input would be appreciated. thanks, Dave

Well Dave, it's a good question. Fact is, I didn't set up the cable. Fellow named Frank Plumley who was the original owner did the original 5.0L swap back in 96. He used a Converse kit.

Now I've had the motor in/out lots of times and have now swapped in the LS. Near as I can tell from images, the clutch cable and adjuster is the stock Volvo unit. Turns out the cable stop/adjuster (yellow plastic bit with a star wheel) is a perfect fit into the corresponding spot in a fox body Mustang V8/T5 bell housing. Since I'm using a QT bell that mimics the Ford bell, it works with the LS too.

And the Mustang throw out bearing is designed to have a bit of tension on it all the time - always turning if the engine is running. That's why no spring is required. I believe on the Volvo set up, there's a 2mm gap spec'd between the clutch fork and the bearing -- and the spring is designed to pull the release fork back OFF the bearing.

So - if you're not going hydraulic, seems like the first thing to figure out is will your throw out bearing be the kind that has the fork against it all the time, or the type that requires a small gap. I think that determines the need for a spring or not.

With mine, you just unscrew the adjuster to allow the cable to be "too long" -- unhook it from the clutch fork for removal. Installation - put the ball behind the fork and then turn the adjuster until you take the slack up and have the fork putting just a touch of tension on the bearing. I got lucky - the exh manifolds I selected drop straight down between the last two cylinders. The clutch cable is too long to go BEHIND that drop, and has to make its u-turn to head back to the bell in front of the manifold drop. It's just barely long enough to do so. Had to make a small bracket to hold the cable off the manifold - and I triple heat insulated it in that area.

Hopefully that makes sense. If not, we can switch to email and I can attach some pics.

Michael, Having photos of your setup may be helpful to me. I'm not familiar with the Ford system. With the 1960's GM parts (except for the clutch itself which Olds sourced from Ford!) I'm using, the clutch was operated by a "Z" bar - pushing the fork rather than the Volvo cable setup which pulls to activate. That's why I considered a hydraulic 260 setup which also pushes. I chose a Datsun 510 system to consider because those cars remain popular with parts being available and the slave is simply mounted with two bolts to a bracket. I'll have to drill holes in the firewall insert on my '93 auto body (which-by the way-I just learned getting a clear title will not be the major obstacle I thought it would be) whichever way I go. Why on earth did Volvo make auto/stick specific inserts from '86 and up anyway? My email--fastforwardphoto(AT)yahoo(DOT)com.
And to not completely hijack this thread I'll offer this---I first saw the Volvo clutch adjustment procedure where the release bearing is always in contact with the pressure plate on later 240 Turbos (stepped flywheel?). Earlier cars have a spring down below pulling the fork back as well as the pedal spring to keep the pedal "up". -- Dave

Photos sent
--
82 242-6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 Crosstrek

Phew, after discovering rust on the floor I was hoping for less hitches with my project, thanks a lot guys!