As a promised follow-up here, I made up a jumpered bulb sensor and wanted to know if it really made much difference in bulb brightness. The answer, as I rather suspected, is no appreciable difference.

For those wanting to do a bypass for the bulb sensor relay, there are three options:

1) Remove the bulb from the instrument cluster. If it's just a nuisance bulb out indicator then that' great. But some of those old sensors can develop more troubleshome shorts and breaks that cause real problems, not just a false or intermittent indicator.

2) Quick and dirty is to use a small selection of two-legged and three-legged male jumper wires and insert them directly into the relay tray socket to re-connect the original circuits that branched out in the bulb sensor (see Dave Barton's web site for more info).

3) A more elegant solution, leastwise in my mind, is to crack open the sensor, cut-off and de-solder all conections above the base board, and solder in jumper wires on the base board to replace all the circuitry you just removed (except of course for the dash bulb). It's best if you have a proper wiring diagram -there are three types of bulb sensors that were used. Refer to green manuals, Dave Barton's webs site and/or sketches that can be found on Turbobricks. On the later sensors, for example, you can do most of the needed jumpering by soldering short U-jumpers wires between adjacent pin holes on the board, plus two longer jumper wires that have to cross the board a short way (insulated wires are best there). Trickiest bit is not letting your solder unintentionally bridge between adjacent pins -inspect your handiwork carefully.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now