Yes, Dave's got great stuff and tons of good info on his site at davebarton.com. It would actually be quite easy to make up your own from an old one. Just cut through the middle of all the long pins and posts above the base board, bend them around as needed to make access easier and solder in jumper wires to complete all circuits except for the dash bulb (p31-pK). With a bit of visual and meter tracing you can figure out the circuits. For actual pin assignements there's a good diagram in the green electrical manuals (assorted green manuals can be found on line with google, any later year that uses that sensor will do). Plus on turbobricks there's a couple of old posts by Art (as cleanframetrap) with a good hand drawn schematic.

Thinking about my problem overnight, it occurred to me there's one more, and very likely possibility and that's a wire going through one of the inductance coils shorting to the inside of the coil. Difficult to look through some of the coils so I'll have to do some more tracing today. Kinda fiddly to unsolder some of the connections to isolate circuits for testing so I'm hoping my ESR meter can find the short in circuit. If you're not familair with them, ESR meters can test caps in circuit, but I'm not overly familiar with some of the other tricks they can do. I picked up a build-it-yoursef kit for an ESR meter from an electronics distributor for like $29 some 16 years ago as a fun project -kinds neat, but I don't do enough electronics to use it often plus it's not much good for surface caps which are increasingly used on PCBs these days.

I'm still curious whether bypassing the sensor will make a noticeable difference in bulb brightness as one person claimed many years back. If I give up on the reapir and build a jumpered one I'll post back on this thread.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now