What I really need is about 5 years of Volvo dealership experience, 15 years ago. I have a stock '84 242ti automatic. I run about 8 psi of max boost. The tranny shifts too early at full throttle and I get detonation. The boost spikes to 10 psi. I'm going to jerry rig the car with a SAAB apc box the terminal 11 trick. Also, I'm bending the timing advance/retard actuator stop (and other easy stuff). But first I want to make sure that everything that should be working, is. I'm kinda familiar with K jet but there are a lot of things that I don't know for sure.

Here goes. The control pressure reg... there is two vac lines to it. Is one supposed to be vented to atmosphere? The Boost enrichment sw. Does it effect the control press reg. or frequency valve or both, and is there supposed to be a check valve between it and the tee? How is the boost control sol. that kicks in at 3700 rpm supposed to work? What is the thermal timer really supposed to do and what's that switch up on the fire wall? What does the fraquency valve do that the control press. reg. can't? Which one of them does the O2 sensor effect? What does the rpm relay control (other than the boost sol.)? There is a black box near the coolant resevour. What does it do? I have a stupid Haynes manual but I'm sick of having my intelligence insulted (any sugestions on reading material). Thanks for any help and sorry for so many questions.

Buy this book.

I borrowed the old version. Cool book. Is there a way to get the service manuals for these things. I know if I go to the dealer I'll probably get the whole box with pdi and new model training stuff for 1500 bucks and they won't be able to sell the books individually.

"Is there a way to get the service manuals for these things..."

Post a request here, in the classified section. Often people have Volvo "green" manuals for sale -- I've bought some from folks here.

Also look on eBay for manuals. Sometimes you can get excellent deals there -- and sometimes.

"...if I go to the dealer I'll probably get the whole box with pdi and new model training stuff for 1500 bucks..."

Never! $1450, maybe.....

Actually, I think the dealer sells them individually, but they're still pricey.

Yeah, I once gave away a 140 green book, now that I think about it.

To me?

No. To a guy named Ron Hinsdale. That would have been verry funny though!

I don't have time to answer all the questions, but what I can say is:

All are answered in Bentley. Adjust the kickdown cable, also.

No, tried that. There must be something besides the t/v cable, like a governor or maybe a valve body spring(s) that's messed up. I don't have a good book for this car so I just stare at it untill I recognize something and go from there. I have BMW, VW, Land Rover and M/B carnal knowlege so I've seen all the stuff in my Volvo in other cars but it's not the same.

"The tranny shifts too early at full throttle and I get detonation."

So you are really saying at high rev's you DON'T get detonation, but then if the RPM's drop below the power band it bogs and pings, but the boost is still up? What kind of gas do you use? Has the car always done this or did it just start? Too early shifts? Please give some RPM, shift examples. I say gain properly adjust the kickdown cable, flush and fill with synthetic ATF, plus one bottle of Lubegard. Also fix the tailshaft bushing if worn.

"The boost spikes to 10 psi."

OK is this how you have the wastegate set? So it shifts, bogs, pings and spikes? Is this with a calibrated gauge>

"I'm going to jerry rig the car with a SAAB apc box the terminal 11 trick. Also, I'm bending the timing advance/retard actuator stop (and other easy stuff). But first I want to make sure that everything that should be working, is."

YES this is TOTALLY smart. As I said get the Volvo Bentley book - this stuff is covered - also as Don showed the Bentley Inj. manual is good. Also order the Volvo green book. You can order only the book(s) you need and they are not that expensive. Call 1-800-25Volvo to order the aftermarket product info. catalog.

"The control pressure reg... there is two vac lines to it. Is one supposed to be vented to atmosphere?"

Yes there is a J pipe vented to atomosphere on all K-jet CPR's not a vacuum line. Just a breather to allow diaphragm movement.

"The Boost enrichment sw. Does it effect the control press reg. or frequency valve or both, and is there supposed to be a check valve between it and the tee?"

It only effects the Freg. valve. increasing richness by increasing duty cycle. The check/delay valve is only on automatic turbos.

"How is the boost control sol. that kicks in at 3700 rpm supposed to work?"

Read Bentley. RPM goes up to 3750, some pressure is bled off, therefore wastegate is not open as much and boost goes up.

"What is the thermal timer really supposed to do and what's that switch up on the fire wall?"

What switch on the firewall? The themal time switch is for for starting - basically it "tells" how long the single electric start fuel injector stays on.

"What does the fraquency valve do that the control press. reg. can't?"

Electrically and more rapidly adjusts the duty cycle (or on time for fuel) in response to the O2 sensor, via the K-jet ECU. CPR is not in the Lambda sond feed back loop.

"Which one of them does the O2 sensor effect?"

See above

"What does the rpm relay control (other than the boost sol.)?"

I think it cuts AC off at high RPM as well.

"There is a black box near the coolant resevour. What does it do? "

This is the ignition control/amplifier.

"I have a stupid Haynes manual but I'm sick of having my intelligence insulted (any sugestions on reading material)."

Yes Haynes can be quite insulting and DEAD wrong - but I own it along with all other reading material and sometimes the pictures are OK.

Hope this helps.

> So you are really saying at high rev's you DON'T get detonation, but then if

> the RPM's drop below the power band it bogs and pings, but the boost is still

> up?

Thats right. But it doesn't bog. The boost spikes. I think a bypass valve would fix it but I don't think that it should be happening to begin with.(Not the spike, the ping).

>What kind of gas do you use? Has the car always done this or did it just

> start? Too early shifts? Please give some RPM, shift examples. I say gain

> properly adjust the kickdown cable, flush and fill with synthetic ATF, plus

> one bottle of Lubegard. Also fix the tailshaft bushing if worn.

I bet that's it! the tail shaft bushing! There's a governor back there isn't there? I tried to set the t/v cable so that the shift pionts were higher but it wound up being too tight. (Normal driving was impossible). I use 89 octane. When I got the car, it was making 2 or 3psi. 1-2 sift is about 4000rpm, 2-3 is 4800, full throttle. (I manually shift when the need for wot arises but that's VERRY rare.)

> OK is this how you have the wastegate set? So it shifts, bogs, pings and

> spikes? Is this with a calibrated gauge>

Yes and yes. You say the boost sol. is supposed to vent some pressure from the waste gate (through some sort of internal orface I presume), well there is a bolt stuck in one of the lines. The turbo has been replaced and there is no tee into the new waste gate actuator signal line.

>

> YES this is TOTALLY smart. As I said get the Volvo Bentley book - this stuff

> is covered - also as Don showed the Bentley Inj. manual is good. Also order

> the Volvo green book. You can order only the book(s) you need and they are not

> that expensive. Call 1-800-25Volvo to order the aftermarket product info.

> catalog.

Kool.

>

>

>

> Yes there is a J pipe vented to atomosphere on all K-jet CPR's not a vacuum

> line. Just a breather to allow diaphragm movement.

I figured this out today. It's all coming back to me.

> It only effects the Freg. valve. increasing richness by increasing duty cycle.

> The check/delay valve is only on automatic turbos.

I get it.

>

> What switch on the firewall? The themal time switch is for for starting -

> basically it "tells" how long the single electric start fuel injector stays

> on.

There is a diafragm thing hooked up to the timer with a two prong connector.

>

> >

> Electrically and more rapidly adjusts the duty cycle (or on time for fuel) in

> response to the O2 sensor, via the K-jet ECU. CPR is not in the Lambda sond

> feed back loop.

I noticed a little soot in the tail pipe so I adjusted the fuel destributor. The frequency valve started buzzing and I remembered all about dwell and co hc. Everything.

> This is the ignition control/amplifier.

Not that one. It's on the pas. side and a little bigger than a relay.

> Yes Haynes can be quite insulting and DEAD wrong - but I own it along with all

> other reading material and sometimes the pictures are OK.

Yeah, it's ok, I guess but the boost sol. part, I knew, made no sense.

>

> Hope this helps.

>

ABSOLUTELY! I was 13 years old when this car was new. Ask me about ME 7.X or older Motronic. Thanks again!

It's the FUEL!!!

You should NOT use any fuel less than 91. Oh, your Volvo glovebox manual may say 89 octane but that was how many years ago? (I'm running out of fingers)

The RPM's sound about right for AT shifts (I'm too tired to dig the books out - all three of my current cars are sticks)There is no governor back there, but that bushing is more critical than people think for smooth shifts and tranny life. Still proper adjustment of the kickdown cable is essential.

A bolt stuck in one of the lines just ain't right, but you knew that! It should bleed into the post airbox, preturbo cast tube.

That diaphragm unit on the firewall with two wires is the pressure differential switch for cold enrichment acceleration.

The box on the passenger side...how big? I know on some earlier turbo's they put some relays over there. How many wires? What color wires?

> You should NOT use any fuel less than 91. Oh, your Volvo glovebox

> manual may say 89 octane but that was how many years ago? (I'm

> running out of fingers)

Oh. OOPS!

> That diaphragm unit on the firewall with two wires is the pressure

> differential switch for cold enrichment acceleration.

I get it.

> The box on the passenger side...how big? I know on some earlier

> turbo's they put some relays over there. How many wires? What color

> wires?

You know, I started fishing around there today. It's hooked up to the boost sol. That little module pulses the solinoid, huh? Maybe that's one less piece to rip off the SAAB.

The little black box near the coolant reservoir is the rpm relay. It

opens the boost solenoid at 3700rpm and also cuts out the AC. The relay

being over by the coolant reservoir means that you have a car that the

intercooler kit was installed. If its a factory intercooled car the rpm

relay and the AC relay are located on a bar in front of the battery. Going

to 10 psi should be OK since the stock adjustment can be up to 10.5 psi.

the hose that runs from the intercooler outlet pipe over to the turbo

should have the tee in it and the branch from the tee should go to the

boost solenoid. Then the outlet hose from the solenoid goes to the hole

in the metal inlet pipe right next to where the PCV hose attaches.

Dave 82 242ti

> The relay being over by the coolant reservoir means that you have a car > that the intercooler kit was installed. If its a factory intercooled car > the rpm relay and the AC relay are located on a bar in front of the > battery.

What a bubble burser! And I thought I had an original! Oh well, only paid 600 bucks for it, and now I don't feel too bad about hackin into'er. That solinoid is working but it just opens, no pulsing. I wonder if it is the same as the saab part though? A friend of mine told me he would give me his SAAB stuff for $5.00. His rat box '86 900t blew a turbo.

Hello Mike,

That solenoid is supposed to just open. It should not pulse at all. It's

purpose is to provide the air path to off load some of the boost pressure

at 3700rpm and above to the wastegate so your boost pressure goes from

aprox 8psi to 10psi. It is triggered by that relay. Look at the good side

you have a nice car that someone cared enough to intercool. The important

thing is that its on there. That is a great starting price for the car.

I only get parts cars for prices like that. And they really are junk.

With a reasonable investment of 1-2k$ you can have a very nice car that will go the distance.

Dave 82 242ti