I am having an electrical problem that is slowly getting worse. You know how the amp light glows slightly when the fan is turned on? Well mine exhibits the same glow when the brakes are depressed or the turn signals activated. Last night, with the headlights on, the "glow" was pretty much full on.

Let me tell you what I've done. I have replaced the generator and voltage regulator (with used pieces from a crashed car). I have installed one of Ron's cleaned and soldered fuse boxes. I tried "jumping" the main fuse with a modern spade-type fuse holder/fuse and alligator clips. A few months ago when the car was being serviced for something else, I asked the shop to check the charging system and they said everything was normal.

I believe everything is acting normal until the brake is depressed or turn signals activated. Though the problem never goes away, it sometimes is better than others (doesn't glow as brightly).

Any ideas on where I should start?

Thanks!

Bob;

The symptoms sound like an open fuse No1 (possibly corroded and not immediately obvious as blown open, but anything in line open such as corroded crimps would certainly also exhibit then same symtoms - but by jumping it and seeing no change, you've eliminated that) AND also a failed generator (see also additional info under Electrical System service notes on SwEm site).

Remember, you AMP light lights when it sees a difference in voltage between the battery positive terminal (by way of the ignition switch and fuse 1) and the generator output terminal.

Your charging sys may have failed since it was declared OK a while ago.

I'd be very interested in the cause when you finally find it...please let us know.

Good Hunting!

Mark,

The other posts are right on, but here's one more thing to check: the grounds. A long shot, but something that's good to check just on general principle. The 'gen' light is sensitive to the voltage between the body and the engine. The generator should be grounded to the block- it's been a while since I took mine off- does it have a separate ground lug? If so, make sure it's clean. If not, make sure everything's bolted up tight...and that the v. reg also has a clean ground. Make sure the ground strap from the battery is securely fastened and the connections are clean. Same goes for the body- to- block strap (you do have one of those, right?)

Good luck!

Toby

Having been through that on a variety of 122s, the last a 1966 wagon,

I may be a little better qualified to comment on this.

I'd bet $5 that most of the problem is a fuse or fuse box.

The fuse box is laminated and riveted together. I pretty much

cured those kind of problems by drilling out the rivets, soldering

the laminations together and then putting screws through the holes.

But it may be as simple as a loose fuse holder. (Bend the clips

together and clean both the clips and the end of the fuse first.)

If it is JUST the turn indicator making the amp light flash or turn on,

it is certainly in the circuit of the top fuse. Otherwise it may be

with several of them. (the amp light and the turn signal are served

by the same fuse.)

George is dead on on this one. When I took my fuse block apart the amount of corrosion was significant.

I did this and electric gremlins went away.

so does the voltage to some degree. That is why the headlight get brighter as you accelerate from a stop. Is your light coming on only at an idle?, or at any speed. If it is at idle, try bringing up the rpms slowly while stopped. In an automatic you can hold the brake and gently bring up the rpm's to see if the light goes out, and at what rpm. In a standard do it with the clutch in. If this is all it is just set up the idle a little. If it comes on at cruising speed, something else is going on. The light works by power (12v+) going through the bulb from a fuse, and hooks up on the regulator or generator at the D+ terminal. it gets a ground there until the generator begins producing power, and the D+ terminal is "hot" (12v+). Like an alternator, two 12v+'s won't light a bulb, and it goes out. As the gen slows down however that groung begins to return(not highly technical), and the bulb begins to glow. Try the first test and let us know what happens. MK

Mark,

Thanks for the quick reply. I should have mentioned up front that the intensity of the "glow" is independent of the rpms. It glows steady or blinks with the turn signals at the same intensity regardless of how fast or slow the engine is turning.

gen or regulator terminal. Do it with the engine running (carefuly). this will replicate the dash light. See if the same symtoms appear at the test light. It would help to unhook the light wire from the gen/reg to do this test, but I am not sure if it is a separate wire terminal. This is a tough problem to tackle without my hands on the car!