This weekend I am replacing the steering rack and outer tie-rod ends, as the entire steering is sloppy and there is almost no power assist when the thing is cold. While I have this all apart, I was thinking about replacing the front lower ball joints as well, since the rubber boots on both sides are cracked all the way around. Can someone describe the basic procedure for replacing the ball joints? I read the blurb in the FAQ about "Ball Joints and Tie Rods Replacement" but I think in this case, the author is talking about the ball joint part of the tie-rod end, not the main lower ball joint in the strut tower. Do I need to remove the strut tower assembly to replace the lower ball joint?

Thanks!

Matt,

Some 7/900's came with aluminum lower arms (like my 93 940). I don't recommend wailing on the aluminum arm with a pickle fork. You can get a puller at Auto Zone for 10 - 12 bucks that will do the job. Simply put it on after removing nut and cotter pin, tighten up and give it a couple of taps with hammer. The joint will pop free, sometimes it will pop if you let it sit a few minutes, generally only with aluminum arms. Good luck.

Although it is correct that the correct tool will not impinge upon the aluminum arm at all.

The problem is that a ball joint removal tool that will fit on the volvo may not be that easy to find...pickle forks are everywhere and work well if you don't mind tearing the rubber boot or it is torn already.

JohnB,

The pickle fork slides against the rubber boot and the aluminum arm; henceforth, when you hit the pickle fork with the hammer, you hit the aluminum. Be careful, aluminum ain't like steel, dents are great spots for fatigue cracks to start at.

Matt:

I repalced the ball joints on my 745t earlier this year. Below is the description (the best I can remember) of how I did it.

1. Loosen lug nut on front wheels.

2. Set parking brake and block rear wheels. Raise car and support on jack

stands placed under subframe.

3. Remove wheels.

4. Remove cotter pin or retaining clip from threaded portion of ball

joint,loosen and remove large nut holding tie rod to ball joint.

5. Separate tie rod form ball joint using fork type pry bar. At this point

you will most likely need some type of long pry bar to push tie rod end

down far enough to remove it completely from the ball joint.

6. Loosen two bolts holding ball joint to lower strut tube.

7. Remove ball joint. A couple soft wacks with a rubber mallet might

be necessary to break the ball joint loose from the strut tower after

the two bolts have been removed.

8. Install new ball joint on strut tube using the bolts provided. Be sure

to use some lock tite on the threads. If I remember correctly, the MOOG

ball joint I purchased came with some red lock tite. Do not hold me to

this about the color. But use some. Torque bolts down to spec.

9. Use the long pry bar to push tie rod end down far enough so as to get it

back on the ball joint. Extra pair of hands could be helpful here.

10.Install new nut that holds tie rod onto ball joint and tighten to spec.

It will probably be necessary to use the long pry bar to push up on tie

rod end to prevent threaded portion of ball joint from spinning while

you are tightening the nut. Replace cotter pin or retaining clip.

11.Reinstall wheel, lower car and enjoy nice ride and steering.

12.Get front end aligned

Hope this helps and good luck.

Disclaimer: In light of the recent oil pan drain lifting syndrome, the above information is presented only as a recommendation and should not be cosidered the final word on how it is done. I am not a professional mechanic. I provided the information in an attempt to help fellow Brick owners as a way of saying thank you to the Volvo community using the Brickboard who have helped me keep my Brick rolling happily along.

I replaced my ball joints recently. I also used a pickle fork. I bought ball joints at NAPA which came with the bolts. I checked the bolts and they were a grade 5 bolt not a grade 8 bolt as Volvo uses. I hunted around and found 3 at the local LOWES. SO I bought them and used one of the old ones. So far so good.

So, check before you buy. If you buy from Volvo, they should come with the proper grade bolts, grade 5 being a little too soft for me. I temd to 'take' the corners.

Also clean the thread carefully and use some rust spray so that the nut won't get stuck half way out. Then use a heavy hammer with the pickle fork.

Quickest way is with a pickle fork ($4-6 USD at TrakAuto or somesuch) but it destroys the rubber boot generally...not a prob in your case...to separate the spindle (bearing carrier?) from the strut..gives you a little more room to get at the two torque-to-yield bolts that hold the ball joint to the strut.

A new balljoint should have two new bolts with it. I generally use belt and suspenders technique when putting these in...blue (not red hi torque) loctite, initial torque to spec and then angle torque to spec.

Then put on the knuckle nut and torque to spec with crowfoot wrench or use long box wrench and 'real' tight!