I was about to change the oil on my '85 240 sedan but I thought I'd ask here to see what people do and make sure I don't do anything stupid--it's been years since I changed the oil myself but a recent experience with Jiffy Lube has made me decide to start doing it again.

Do you guys use wheel ramps or jack the car up?

Any special oil filter--should I order from IPD or will the one at my local auto supply work fine?

Is the oil filter hard to get at? Do you guys grab it from above or below? Will a standard band-type oil filter wrench work? Do you fill the new filter up with oil before installing it?

Ok, and my main stupid question--is the drain plug the brutally obvious one at the bottom of the (red) oil pan? Is a crescent wrench ok for this? Do I need a new gasket on the plug? What about magnetic plugs?

Anything else?

Thanks!

If you do not want to go to the bother of ceawling under the brick then get yourself a "topsider " it is sold by "www.Overtons.com" they have several designes.
Just pump up the vaccume tank put the hose down the dipstick opening and release the hose clasp and you are on your way to draining the oil out of the engin.
It workes for me.

Wow, this thread was fun to read.

Someone mentioned using a bread bag around the filter. The one around the rainy day newspaper works once you loosen the filter a half turn or so. I've been practicing to spill not a drop on the precious motor mount.

More of my foibles: Decorate the filter with mileage using a felt tip marker. Replace filler cap gasket now and then. I've collected some huge cat litter containers for their wide caps that make it easy and fast to pour the used oil into the recycling tanks maybe twice a year.

Check the flame trap. Yes, that has been said. I don't really need to since switching to synthetic, but can't break the habit.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

You can buy a case (10) of the Mann oil filters from www.fcpgroton.com for $33.00 USD, or $3.95 each. They also sell the gaskets if you decide to go that route.

Never in all my 37 years of working on cars, oil changes included (had my first job working at an Esso station when I was 13) have I ever poured oil into a new filter before installing it. Been driving and maintaining Volvo's (all work large and small) for 35 years (61 122S when I was 15) and never had one to burn a bearing.

But it can't possibly hurt to prefill the filter, can it? Unless, of course, you fill it with the wrong stuff....

...And that would be a waste of good beer....
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Touche.

I think the other boarders have covered most things. All I shall add are 3 of my own little tricks.

1. A large washing up bowl is much easier than a propietry drain can. You have a hooj target so it's difficult to miss and if you line it up right you can catch the dregs from the filter as well without having to move it. I then use a very large funnel to pour it back into an old oil bottle.

2. Get an old double blanket. Fold it in half and place it under the car beore beginning work. This will prevent all but the biggest spills from marking your driveway/garage floor/lawn etc.

3. I think Paul S hit on this and he's dead right. It's vital that you get as much of the old oil out as possible. Take up smoking and tea drinking. By the time you've brewed up, smoked a couple of Marlboros and downed a cuppa then a good half hour or more has passed and most of the old oil will be out. You children all warm the engine, and hence the oil, up before hand don't you?

Good luck,

Big Rich.
--
'86 245, B230A. 161k. Old 200s never die, they just live on in other cars.

At stock ride height, I didn't jack up my 240 at all for an oil change. With the front end lowered 2", I now jack up the drivers side front corner to get a drain pan under the car.

Go ahead and order a case of 10 Mann filters if you plan to have your car for a few years. On ebay, they can be had for under $40 after shipping.

I remove the filter from above, using my hand only. I've never needed a filter wrench.

I coat the rubber gasket on the filter with oil before installing the filter.

I use an adjustable wrench on the oil pan plug every time I do an oil change, and it's never been a problem. Even used a breaker bar with the adjustable wrench when the plug was on too tight. My drain plug is just fine, with no rounded corners.

I've reused the copper gasket for about 4 oil changes before finally replacing it. I never had a leak from the plug.

The engine with filter takes 4 quarts.

And now I'll read the other 25+ responses...
--
Volvo 240 Links

"And now I'll read the other 25+ responses..."

You done pretty good....'cept the adjustable wrench quip (newhire socket set)

I gotta tell you I have a few of 'em....I never have had the touch...the things scare me when I need to bear down....but then again I don't really even like open end wrenches!

I never mention that my car holds almost 6 quarts now, for whatever that's worth...just confuses the new folks.

I just changed the oil in the SR5 yesterday - first time in almost 2 years(yikes) - maybe 5000 miles. Put series 2000 20W-50 in it - those noisy valves went silent. Japanese vehicles pre 1990 really call for just about any SAE viscosity to work within normal human living conditions...I had 10W-30 in it before.
--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

"You done pretty good....'cept the adjustable wrench quip..."

It works, so I'll stick with it until I remember to buy a 1" socket when I'm at the parts store. Already got the 1-1/16" deep socket for the elusive R-Sport steering wheel that will eventually show up at the junkyard.

I forgot one tip, my oil disposal process. I use a large square tub as a drain pan, but the corners don't allow me to pour the oil back into the containers with small openings. For that, I use an old laundry detergent jug that has a removeable spout. It pops out easily, leaving a ~2.5" diameter opening to pour in most of the oil, then replace the spout and distribute back into the 1qt. containers.
--
Volvo 240 Links

Good points from other responders... Also, make sure the old gasket on the filter you removed is not stuck to the engine block. Double bagging might be good for garbage but two rubber gaskets between the filter and block = oil leak.

When putting the new filter on rub a bit of oil on the new oil filter gasket before you install it.

Kevin

LOL
i used to work in a garage while i was going to highschool, only did it once, damn, what a mess to clean up. i wasn't the first, and i sure wasn't the last, even the boss did it once or twice while i was working there. of course it was a volkswagon shop & the old hippies driving them wouldn't change the filter unless it was in the shop for something else, might have had something to do w/ the gaskets getting baked onto the engine.
definately don't forget that gasket, & don't forget to apply a bit of oil to the new one, even fill the filter up.
--
-- '82 245GL B23E 350k km --

Hey Hank,

Just my two cent worth: been changing my oil since 19.....? Cant remember!

Been using this rather long crescent wrench for years. No stipped bolts or rounded heads. I just make sure to adjust for tight fit. Ive never had to replace a drain plug, and the only time I change a washer is when it rolls down the driveway and I dont feel like chasing after it. Never wiped one off either(I think I may start though).

What should be chiseled in granite here is: Dont forget to put oil fiter back on. Dont forget to put the drain plug back in. Dont over torque. Dont forget to put the oil in. Dont over fill. DO WATCH OUT FOR THE HOT EXHAUST MANIFOLD WHEN REMOVING THE FILTER!!!!! If I cant wait til it cools, I wear thick long sleeves and gloves.

Long live the brickboard.

Lawrence

something that jiffy lube, or any other oil-change place WON'T do...

protect the motor mount under the oil filter. Best way is with a section of newspaper placed under the filter before you loosen it. Not only does this keep oil from dripping on the motor mount (which will shorten the mount's life) but it completely contains the oil that inevitably drips out of the filter as you remove it.

I never use ramps these days, and I allways drain the oil with the car sitting with all four wheels on the ground.
Fisrt make sure the engine is at operating temp, as it helps get all the oil out, and then all you need is a floor jack of some sort and jack it up to get to the plug, pull the plug and then lower the car back down to the ground and let the oil drain for at least an hour (walk off and have a cuppa or something), and if your doing the filter just do it from the top, and I agree that if you need a tool to undo it, some wally did it up to tight to begin with, allways only do up a filter hand tight, and then check it after a run for leaks and retighten it again by hand.

Allways check the amount of oil that come out to gauge how much oil to pour back in, and do so slowly as to not overfill, if you do overfill drain some back out.

Easy.

Use a Mann filter for normal 3-5K mile change intervals.

Do it on a flat or 2x4's. Ramps will work but I wonder if this is the best angle for drainage.

NO CRESCENT WRENCH (aka noneck socket set)....I like the magnetic plugs but what do I know.

The MOST important thing? DRAIN AS MUCH OF THE OLD OIL OUT as possible. Hot engine. Wait a good hour for drainage with plug out. (yeah I know) I use compressed air. Ask me how. Check my web site for an overkill flush procedure.

--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

Get a Fumoto Valve.....you will never have to use a socket or wrench again to remove your drain plug.

I put these in both my 240's. I can now reach under the car, flip the valve and drain the oil...no need for ramps.

http://fumotovalve.com/

I've never though those things were worth the risk, I know of up to 5 cases where people have had them torn off because they hang down further putting them into harms way under the car.
It's not an issue on some cars and vans because they have high ground clearance and the sumps plugs are well out of harms way, but on cars like the volvo, it's a worry.

And if you have a much lowered car? forget it, it's not worth the risk.
One of the cases I mentioned was a guy who ran over a rock or something (on a mountian road) and then got quite a few miles before all the oil was gone and the engine went bang.

It adds about 3/8 to 1/2 inch, but i've never had a problem on either car in many years. However, in the event it does get caught on something, its no small job to replace the oil pan.

Mike.

"...a recent experience with Jiffy Lube has made me decide to start doing it again..."

That was dumb, but you got smart again. Good old Dippy Loob -- was Zippy there grinning and giggling?

"...use wheel ramps or jack the car up?"

I drive the front wheels up onto a coupla 2x4s just to get a little extra height. But this summer, after a few cold ones, I'll need the 4x4s....

"Any special oil filter--should I order from IPD or will the one at my local auto supply work fine?"

Avoid FRAM like the plague. Volvo or MANN filters are excellent -- Mann makes 'em for Volvo, and they are very, very good. If you shop carefully you can usually do better on a case of 10 some place other than IPD. Last time I bought 'em from RPR. Do a search on eBay for "volvo filter" (without the quotes).

"Is the oil filter hard to get at?"

Not on the NA engine, but a bit tough on the turbo style. Easily accessible from above, but on the turbo from below with some squirming and special words.

"...a standard band-type oil filter..."

That's what I use.

"...fill the new filter up with oil before installing it?

I do.

"...drain plug the brutally obvious one at the bottom..."

Yep. 1" socket should work fine.

"Do I need a new gasket on the plug?"

By the book, yes. However, if you wipe the dirt off you can probably reuse that sucker about 50 times. (PLease realize that I'm a cheap Yankee, and if I don't need a new washer than I don't use a new washer.)

"What about magnetic plugs?"

It's an attractive idea. Four of my Volvos have them -- IPD had 'em on sale one year for $5 and I couldn't say no.

"Anything else?"

Do more than change the oil.

• Check the battery
  
• Check the AT.
  
• Check the radiator.
  
• Check the brake fluid.
  
• Check the differential oil.
  
• Check the windshield fluid.
  
• Lube the hood hinges.
  
• Lube the door hinges.
  
• Check the tire pressure.
  
• Eyeball the exhaust system.
  
• Eyeball the cooling lines from the tranny to the radiator, particularly at the brackets and clamps.
  
• Check the splash pan for breakage or sagging.
  
• Eyeball the rack boots.
  
• Eyeball the 25-amp fuse under the hood.
  
• At least once, resolder your fuel pump and OD relays.
  
• At least once, clean the flame trap and replace the flame arrester.
  
• At least once, check the big plug in back of the head -- if it pops out, BIG OIL LEAK.
  
• Eyeball the rockers, floorboards, and inner bottom door edges for rust starting.
  
• Make a service note in your car's log book.
  

"I drive the front wheels up onto a coupla 2x4s..."

Well, good for you. You must have a driveway. I have ruts, so I drive the car onto the ridge and lie on the ground in the rut. The ruts get deeper as I get thicker, so I can use this method until the car drags because the ruts are too deep.

"reuse that sucker about 50 times.."

By the time I found that you fussy bustards changed the washer, I had already used mine more than that. I figure that by the time I sold the refrigerator, I had used the washer over 90 times. Funny thing about Yankees.

*Your results may vary*

"...until the car drags because the ruts are too deep..."

You're using your ruts backwards. Park the car so the tires are on high spots, you lie in the mud (helps control hubris).

"...you fussy bustards changed the washer..."

Well, that's exactly the point here. No need, no change. I don't need, so I don't change. The washer, I mean.

"...sold the refrigerator...used the washer over 90 times...Funny thing about Yankees..."

And since you change your oil at 10,000 miles whether it needs it or not, we're talking, ummm, almost a million miles.

And you sold the car after that? I take my hat off to you! (But I hang on to it tightly.)
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Hi Don,

Isn't hubris a Greek term meaning (something like) inviting tragedy because things are going so well?

Am I amazingly knowledgeable or insanely stoopid Dr Don?

Regards,

Big Rich.
--
'86 245, B230A. 161k. Old 200s never die, they just live on in other cars.

"...a Greek term meaning (something like) inviting tragedy because things are going so well?"

Yes and no.

It is Greek in origin. But I believe you're referring to that Latin word "Enron."

Hubris is a variation on the Greek word Hugehead, from which we get the English derivation "fathead."
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Hubris??? Isn't that the distance from the center of the wheel to the rim? 'tis still before breakfast, so maybe it's just me, but how does lying in the mud help with wheel height? As far as that goes, telling the truth, even on dry ground might not make much difference either.

Sold the car. Got such big bux for it that I might have to buy another one and try it again...

"...distance from the center of the wheel to the rim?"

Almost. It's closer to the distance from the center of your head to its rim.

"...how does lying in the mud help with wheel height?"

The sloppier the mud, the farther in you ooze, so the less height you need. And if it's really sloppy, it helps to prevent unnecessary expansion of the diameter of your head. The head in the mud, I mean.

"...even on dry ground might not make much difference either..."

Your only solution is to never change oil again.

"Sold the car. Got such big bux for it that I might have to buy another..."

I remember a car dealer, long gone, whose motto was, "I can find an ass for every seat." He did, too.

He had humongous hubris.

Maybe you're his son. Do you sell ice to the Eskimos?
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Do you sell ice to the Eskimos?

No. Silly man, Eskimos don't need ice. They can grow their own. I sell them sunblock and air conditioners. Waiting for the next order as we tick.

About your defunct car dealer. If he found chairs for donkeys, I can see why he is out of business.

Back to topic. Another thing that may kelp, since our cars were built in Seaweeden, coral those donkeys, make sure that they are firmly tide to the hub, and maybe you can make it rise.

"Eskimos don't need ice..."

Of course not. How foolish of me. I already sold them what they need.

"They can grow their own..."

And they do, using their "Foster Premier Ice Kits." Just add water.

"...your defunct car dealer. If he found chairs for donkeys, I can see why he is out of business..."

Sadly, he was the local Volvo dealer many moons ago. Arrogant, abrasive, avaricious bastard. And those were his good qualities.

"...thing that may kelp, since our cars were built in Seaweeden..."

No need atoll to be saline about. Those folks are trawl the salt of the Earth. They sponge off nobody. But when they do, they must walk the plankton. That will ice them before we Finnish our Danish. And Norway will they return.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

By the book, yes. However, if you wipe the dirt off you can probably reuse that sucker about 50 times. (PLease realize that I'm a cheap Yankee, and if I don't need a new washer than I don't use a new washer.)


I made the mistake of being overly thrifty by doing the same thing on a diesel golf... and ended up stripping the oilpan threads. The fresh washer protects the oilpan as well as making an oiltight fit. I'd use a new one at least every few oil changes. They're pretty darn cheap.

"...stripping the oilpan threads..."

You must have used one of those BIG impact wrenches, just like Zippy at Dippy Loob....

I have never, ever, even once, stripped a drain plug. I guess it's one of the very few benefits that us 97-pound weaklings share.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

In self defense, no, I didn't use an impact wrench, and I always carefully hand tightened the drain bolt... the point of the post was to illustrate how if you never replace the washer it gets thin, hard and looses it's cushioning effect, which a new one indeed does have. In this way, over time the threads on the drainplug itself can become distorted and eventually strip the oilpan threads with little effort. This was explained to me by a german mechanic and I believed him after comparing the new and old drain plug and washers. The two plugs looked like different parts, though they were not. Everyone can make their own choice but ever since replacing that diesel oilpan myself I have made sure to use a new washer at least every few changes. Maybe Volvo pans and plugs are tougher than that, but I'm not going to be the one to find out.

Takes a special person to strip the threads on an oilpan. Usually called "newhires".

I got a car once with the drain screw HEAD stripped almost round (I think some newhire didn't no nothing about nometrics) Funny thing is I was young and got it off with a pipe................wench and then when I went to "expert" auto parts place in town (no joke, you know two notches above schlep boyz, with dudes that sit at the counter all day, every town in USA has at least one) to buy a new plug the guys almost had a coronary....something about "boy" and "idjit" and "mexican socket set".........I bought a new one at the dealer.
--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

"...with the drain screw HEAD stripped almost round..."

That's an easy answer. The PO took the car to Dippy Loob and Zippy used a 12-point 1" socket on his air gun. We both know he instead shoulda used a 6-point 24-mm socket on his air gun.

"...two notches above schlep boyz, with dudes that sit at the counter all day..."

Oh, yeah, that's Zippy's older brother Zero. They musta cloned him -- or maybe it was a REALLY big litter -- 'cause he's in most every auto parts store nationwide.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Aw hell, just go into your local dealer. Two washers, no cahrge. No reason to not use new ones. If you feel guilty you could probably even recycle the copper.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

I have a bag of new washers. If it drips, I need one. If it doesn't drip, I don't need one. When I need one, I use one. When I don't need one, I don't use one.

Anyway, high quality sludge stops small drips.

--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

I save the used ones...(well I guess I save the new ones two)...

When I have a small pile of used copper washers, I heat them up to the real, real hot stage (you don't wanna melt 'em!). Just get them atoms hopping around a bit...then cool 'em real fast. (Copper/copper alloys are backwards of Al and Fe) Water works great, haven't tried goat urine. Either way they'll look ugly.

Then just buff off.......the oxidation (I used 320 grit paper) or come up with a six step EPA approved clean and etch process. Drink slowly.

Never had an oil pan leak. Good for at least three heat cycles. Haven't tried this with Al washer on the 855.
--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

I don't understand -- you'd spend a dollar's worth of propane to salavge a 25-cent washer?
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Well that is something to consider (I hadn't!)

But geez, where do you get your propane? I used maybe 0.10US$ worth to do 6 washers.....goat urine ain't cheap though. My time is @ 1.90US$/hr.

Sometimes I use "MAPP" gas...even then it ain't nobuck.
--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

Actually, I'd either use acetylene or hold it over the burner of the kitchen stove. I don't think the microwave oven would work, but it might be more fun to anneal using resistance heating or RF induction...

I wonder how I can turn this urgent need into a new 4-bay garage with lift?

"...goat urine ain't cheap though..."

True, but seeing as how you're an old goat urine luck....
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

I was taught that if you can't get the filter off with your hands some dohead put it on too tight. I put mine on hand tight, and take them off with my hands. I have not had a leak yet. I do this out of necessity since I used to own a Saab 900. I don't think there is an oil filter wrench in this world that will fit in the space that Saab left around their filter. I made the mistake of trying the screwdriver through the filter trick once, but thats another story.

You can leave the car right on the ground and do it all. No crescent wrench though or you will strip the drain plug. 1" or 25 mm box end works well. Watch out for the alternator connection, you don't want to ground it with the strap wrench on the filter! Use a Volvo or Mann filter, most of us would say, not the local common filter.

Scott-

Here's my 2-bit's worth, you should wait for more repsonses.

>>Do you guys use wheel ramps or jack the car up?
I use wheel remps, but I have to stand on the RH ramp to reach inton the filter area.

>>Any special oil filter--should I order from IPD or will the one at my local auto supply work fine?

Brickboard recommends Mann, order from any of the on-line places. I have used Fram PH-43 for decades, and when I pull them off, they're full of oil. However, a post some months back with picture of used filter cut around showed Mann having a LOT more filter media than Fram.

>>Is the oil filter hard to get at? Do you guys grab it from above or below? Will a standard band-type oil filter wrench work? Do you fill the new filter up with oil before installing it?

The filter is easy for me, since I run with the heat shield in the garage and the pre-heat tube moved out of the way. I use a standard band-typ filter wrench. BUT first, I take a paper towel, wrap the filter and let it drop so it covers the motor mount. A 2nd towel finishes covering the mount. I take a newspaper, 8 thicknesses, and cover the outer fender a little and the strut tower a lot. Keeps the upper arms cleaner. I do not fill the filter with oil, although that sounds like a good idea. Half full, anyway.

>>Ok, and my main stupid question--is the drain plug the brutally obvious one at the bottom of the (red) oil pan? Is a crescent wrench ok for this? Do I need a new gasket on the plug? What about magnetic plugs?

Yes, that is the drain plug. NO, never use any adjustable wrench on it. Use a socket, 6 or 12 point, half-inch drive and NO breaker bar. Use a new copper crush washer, and do not over-tighten. Dunno about magnetic plugs.

>>Anything else? Well, yes. (1) when the oil filler cap is off, stow it upside down on the hood latch - you'll never forget to put it back on. DAMHIK
(2) before removing the filter, put your hand around the bottom and check the distance to the motor mount. Tight fit? Mount is failing, prepare for the mount replacement job soon.

(3) When you crank up after putting in the new oil, pull the 25-amp fuse. Give it 3 or 4 seconds of cranking, til the oil light goes out. You will allow the oil to pump up without the additional stress from combustion on the relatively dry bearings. AND, after that, start it up still on the ramps and look under for leaks.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)