I need to replace my struts and "upper mounts" for the struts. I took it to my mechanic, and hate to spend that much money. How difficult of a job is this? What exactly is the "upper mounts"? I am not familiar with that name. FYI, I have done a bit of DIY on my other brick. I have changed all the bushings, etc., but I have never done sruts before. Any guidance, or advise whether I can do it, would be greatly appreciated.

--Joe
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1977 244, 140K, IPD anti-sway bars 1988 245, 206K

Hi Joe

Do what Rhys has listed and use a thread locking compound (eg locktite) one that can be undone at a later date on the nut on top of the strut body that holds the insert or the nut could come undone at a later date. On my 82 244gl fitted new front inserts new lowered spring all around and Powersteering in one weekend the front inserts and lowered spring were the quickest and easy part of the job

George

Cars I own
Personal import 1974 144gl B20a M40
1975 264gl B27E with a M51 getreg box
1982 244gl B23E/M45 everyday car

Not real difficult job if you have the right tools. As in other things sometimes its worth paying someone to do the job. Strut mounts are what the strut fits into up in the fender well. Doing this job can be dangerous as well due to the energy stored in that compressed spring.

Interesting. I was quoted about $550 for the job.

--Joe HC
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1977 244, 140K, IPD anti-sway bars 1988 245, 206K

hey - i'll do it for $550.00!!!!!

That doesn't sound so bad. Keep in mind that the upper strut mounts are quite expensive. At FCP Groton, they are $40 each, but they are Scan-Tech, which I have found to be poor. The part from Volvo is about $120 each, retail. Make sure you use the Volvo part, or the Boge branded part. The KYB units will fall apart, and the Scan Tech units will also fall apart, and have poor fit to begin with.

Find out what brand they are using for the upper mount, and also what strut they are using.

If you do the job yourself, you can rent the spring compressors, or buy for about $70.

Greg

Was that at a specialty volvo shop? Try another shop, like Midas or whoever is equivalent. Get a price on the parts and find some independent and get a price on labor. That seems really high.

I'll try that. What would be a good brand for struts? Currently, I have Belstiens on the rear, and it has stock anti-sway bars.

Thanks-

Joe HC
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1977 244, 140K, IPD anti-sway bars 1988 245, 206K

Bilsteins are top-of-the-line units and priced as such. The OE Boge (now Sachs) units are very good, and sold by many of the banner advertisers here. Check their prices, and consider that a repair shop could probably get them cheaper than you can. That gives you an idea of their labor charge, and thus, whether you want to try the DIY route. I'd be a bit wary of the mufflers-and-brakes-shop route, as they may not be familiar with Volvo idiosyncracies, and tend to use the cheapest/cheesiest parts they can get. I'm not terribly familiar with front end work, but you may need a wheel alignment after this job, and if so, make sure it's included in any price quote, or factored into your DIY cost calculation.

Almost certain a wheel alignment will be needed. The top of the strut tower is where part of the alignment is adjusted (where the bolts come through).
--
Zack Silver 83' 242Ti (207k)

The flat rate for each side is about 1 1/4 hours, so two and a half for both. The upper mount is removed to do the shock, so there is no extra labour for that part to be replaced.
Monro-matics in Canada retail for about $210.00 the pair, so I do the job for about $350 without the mounts.
Air tools help a lot, especially with the spring compressor. But one slip with the compressor and you can ruin your whole day. Rent or buy a good one if you do the job.
Disconnect the brake line bracket, the tie rod end, the sway bar link, and mark the upper mount location on the inner fender. Remove the three nuts, and lower the strut down, and angle it out of the fenderwell. Install the compressor, and squeeze the spring down until it is loose. Remove the upper shock nut, the plate, and the shield, and the spring. Install the new shock in the strut, and reverse. With a good compressor it is not that bad of a job. Takes me about 30 -45 minutes a side when all goes well.