I know this is a mudane and redudant question but I am going to attempt to replace my rear brakes pads/Parking brake(1st time) and would like experienced advice. I went to the FCP Groton website for pads and they listed them "w/ or w/o IRS", what is IRS and do I have it. My rear brake calipers are ATE, does the IRS refer to the Bendix? Next, does it matter what pads I get? I went to International Imports Specialist website and the had the PBR pads which I was thinking of getting but noticed that the Dan-Block pad had 45 degree angles on their pads which I heard was reccomended. Does it matter? Anyone know what size bolts used in securing ATE caliper? Same Q with shims, I have a metal and Teflon ones now, can I replace them with any generic brand shims? Do I use the brake cleaner on everything but friction surfaces,i.e. caliper pistons, discs/rotors, etc.? Also the caliper pins, are they all the same size? I am replacing them too. I have the anti-rattle springs. Thanks for bearing with my questions and your info is appreciated.
1989 740 GL

If you look at the ipd catalog,you'll notice 2 diff.#s and $ for the caliper pins for 240vs740.
However, the FCPGroton only has one $ and part # for the 240/740.
I use original Volvo pads with the Teflon and stainless steel shims supplied with the pad.However,the rear brakes still squeals,I wonder whether it's due to the generic swedish caliper pins supplied by FCPgroton.The one supplied by IPD and Volvo are ATE pins.
Perhaps JohnB can comment.
Tom

I agree with John, pads do matter more than you might think (and both brands he mentions are good). I actually have teh dan-block pads on right now and am very happy.

However, I recently experienced sharp pulling on brake and took my car to my indy guy for a lookover. Turns out that the indy volvo shop I went to previously (like a year and a half ago) TOTALLY fucked up my brakes, and it was all because they used cheapo pads.

Pads are designed to wear. Some pads are hard (metalmasters), some pads are soft. What the idiots did to my car was put in cheap hard pads that don't wear down. If you do this (I have now learned) the pad will fail to move and the caliper pin will freeze (since the pads are never moving). Over time the pad will just begin to stick into position, and may get pushed onto the rotor at angles or unevenly. If and when this happens the rotor will become get warped by the uneven application.

-rt

I don't think it really had anything to do with cheapo hard pads in a year and a half. If you used pads that wore out (and therefore moved) in a year and a half you'd be unhappy they wore out that fast! The stock pads are good enough to last 100K unless you had one of the new cars with traction control (I've seen THEM wear out in 20K miles if you have a lead foot :>) and that is certainly more than a year and a half (Sorry Irv!)

Sounds more like old corroded hardware was reused and the pads not lubricated on the side or there was rust in the caliper that all added up to frozen pads in the year and a half after you had the pads put in.

You don't have IRS.

The rear brake pads are a good task for a beginning DIY. All you need (besides the wrench to get the tire off) is a hammer and a punch to push the pins out (2 per caliper, they are all the same size), and big pliers to retract the caliper pistons so that you can slide the new, thicker pads in. Use brake cleaner only on the braking surfaces (i.e. rotors and pads) as you want the friction surfaces to be as clean as possible. In my opinion it does not matter which pads you use. I prefer cheap pads from AutoZone.

You mention replacing the parking brakes also. If the problem you are having is that the hand brake comes up too far, the solution is usually to adjust the cables. I have never had to change the parking brake pads, they are not a wear item unless you drive around with the parking brake set :-)

--
Matt L. -- Cary, NC -- '89 740 sedan -- '91 740 wagon

IRS=Independent rear suspension (compared with solid live axle).

PBR or Dan Block are both good pads. I am told the 45 chamfer cuts squeel problems.

Buy the hardware kit, which includes the pad retainer pins and new anti-rattle springs. You can re-use the existing shims, but coat the back of the pads with synthetic brake grease to eliminate squeel. You do not need to remove the caliper, merely drive the caliper pins out with a punch and remove the pads. Squeeze the pistons back with water pump pliers, using a piece of coke can to protect the pistons from the plier jaws.

Now is also a great time to flush your brake fluid. See the FAQ for details.

good summary.
Only thing I would add is check the angular alignment of the rear ATE pistons. Some cars (I switch from Volvo to Saab too often to remember which) had specific angles the piston must be in to align with tabs in the pad shim plates. It's not difficult to do, a screwdriver will rotate the piston as necessary. Easy to see too...no punch-out in the shim, don't worry about it.