Okay, heres a long story that I will try to make short.

I live in the boonies of Minnesota, and I have not found a independant Volvo mechanic in the area. My old mechanic is a bit far away since I moved up here, but I have managed to do alot of the work on my cars by myself(thanks to the Brickboard). But recently I needed to take the car in, and an aquaintance recommended a new mechanic in town who is a Nissan specialist and "loves Volvos".

I took the car in because I wanted the following things done and checked out:

1. Oil Leak--the engine leaked oil a year or so ago...and I found that the PCV vacuum hose was seared shut...replaced that and the flame trap and the leak slowed considerably. The leak has in the last month or two increased(I have been servicing the PCV at oil changes). It drips on to the transmission cooler lines next to the exhaust(and on the exhaust). The mechanic called me to say that I had a bad head gasket that was leaking down the back of the engine.

2. Hot Start problem. I have gone through everything that I could do or think of including a general tune up (plugs, wires, dist.cap+ rotor), inspected areas of possible vacuum leak, replaced some hoses, checked out the hoses to the charcoal cannister, new air filter and air box thermostat, fuel filter. The mechanic said that the engine would benefit from a de-carbonizing when he had it apart for the head gasket job, and that would probably take care of the problem.

3. Bushing replacement/suspension work: I have been incrementally upgrading the suspension. Last year I put in some Bilsteins on the back, and had Boge's installed and balljoints/tie rod ends replaced...but with the stiffer suspension I started to get some clunks..now I wanted to finish the job with all new bushings in the front and back, and the installation IPD overload springs(already purchased).

So here are my concerns, and the price for all this:

The mechanic said he used all Volvo parts, so the parts were on the expensive side:

He put in new bushings in the rear, control arm bushings and stabilizer rods, head gasket, timing belt, head gasket, valve grind kit?, cleaned carbon from injectors intake valves o2 sensor and catalytic converter, new thermostat, AF, oil and filter for $1152 parts, and $926 labor(Total $2153 USD)

But, a week later the engine still leaks the same amt of oil(1/2 quart/200 miles), and it doesnt start any better. In addition, as I was looking at the suspension, I noticed that the trailing arm bushing had a weld on it tacking it to the suspension arm(I saw the old bushing in the box of pulled parts and it was really beat up. A concern?). Actually, the car did start and run better right after I got it back, until I noticed that the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator had broken, and when I replaced it, it started the hot start problem again(I checked to see if there was gas coming out of the FPR, but there was none)

I have an appointment to take it back in. I am looking for any feedback or advice. I feel like a schmuck being at the mercy of an untried mechanic, and having spent so much money without a fix. Thanks in advance.

I had a creepy experience with the first mechanic on my ol Volvo:

temp. was redlining and couldn't see the reason??? I took it in and he couldn't find the problem .., and then said I needed a HeadGasket job as he thought the coolant was leaking into oil etc...(even though his coolant checker said the coolant looked clean) BS!!! (It only needed tweeking of the temp. gauge!!) At least I only lost about 140 bucks for a new thermostat (a 29 overpriced piece of junk which the mechanic cut the valve out of in order to solve the "overheating problem") ... and new cooleant and oil change.)

Even my first mechanic would have called me first with approximate costs in such a high cost job as yours. If your guy just went ahead and did all the things (he said he did???) without leaving a message or getting back with you... you need to sue!!! (but get your car first, post date the check and then stop payment!!)

or as you probably paid, get a second opinion. And then sue (if mechanic doesn't try to satisfy you at least..).

the important thing is honesty: you said "I took the car in because I wanted the following things -done- and checked out: " and he just went ahead and didn't consult with you about the prices of such and such.... he's not being honest. If he told you the approx. costs and you said go ahead .. well that's another problem, yours. You need another mechanic or another car.

also older cars in the 150Kplus range tend to leak a little oil I found out with mine but only maybe a pint every couple thousand or so from rear engine seals according to my better mechanic, who noticed a small oil drip in rear...... but he didn't exploit the matter and said it's only a small price to pay: Oil's cheap compared to the cost of fixing it...

but a half pint every 200miles that's not good: again consider a replacement after getting another opinion... or letting the first mechanic fix it at no extra charges or almost no charge.

cars don't last for ever and you could probably buy a better old Volvo for the costs of what you're putting into this one.

I had a creepy experience with the first mechanic on my ol Volvo:

temp. was redlining and couldn't see the reason??? I took it in and he couldn't find the problem .., and then said I needed a HeadGasket job as he thought the coolant was leaking into oil etc...(even though his coolant checker said the coolant looked clean) BS!!! (It only needed tweeking of the temp. gauge!!) At least I only lost about 140 bucks for a new thermostat (a 29 overpriced piece of junk which the mechanic cut the valve out of in order to solve the "overheating problem") ... and new cooleant and oil change.)

Even my first mechanic would have called me first with approximate costs in such a high cost job as yours. If your guy just went ahead and did all the things (he said he did???) without leaving a message or getting back with you... you need to sue!!! (but get your car first, post date the check and then stop payment!!)

or as you probably paid, get a second opinion. And then sue (if mechanic doesn't try to satisfy you at least..).

the important thing is honesty: you said "I took the car in because I wanted the following things -done- and checked out: " and he just went ahead and didn't consult with you about the prices of such and such.... he's not being honest. If he told you the approx. costs and you said go ahead .. well that's another problem, yours. You need another mechanic or another car.

also older cars in the 150Kplus range tend to leak a little oil I found out with mine but only maybe a pint every couple thousand or so from rear engine seals according to my better mechanic, who noticed a small oil drip in rear...... but he didn't exploit the matter and said it's only a small price to pay: Oil's cheap compared to the cost of fixing it...

but a half pint every 200miles that's not good: again consider a replacement after getting another opinion... or letting the first mechanic fix it at no extra charges or almost no charge.

cars don't last for ever and you could probably buy a better old Volvo for the costs of what you're putting into this one.

I had a creepy experience with the first mechanic on my ol Volvo:

temp. was redlining and couldn't see the reason??? I took it in and he couldn't find the problem .., and then said I needed a HeadGasket job as he thought the coolant was leaking into oil etc...(even though his coolant checker said the coolant looked clean) BS!!! (It only needed tweeking of the temp. gauge!!) At least I only lost about 140 bucks for a new thermostat (a 29 overpriced piece of junk which the mechanic cut the valve out of in order to solve the "overheating problem") ... and new cooleant and oil change.)

Even my first mechanic would have called me first with approximate costs in such a high cost job as yours. If your guy just went ahead and did all the things (he said he did???) without leaving a message or getting back with you... you need to sue!!! (but get your car first, post date the check and then stop payment!!)

or as you probably paid, get a second opinion. And then sue (if mechanic doesn't try to satisfy you at least..).

the important thing is honesty: you said "I took the car in because I wanted the following things -done- and checked out: " and he just went ahead and didn't consult with you about the prices of such and such.... he's not being honest. If he told you the approx. costs and you said go ahead .. well that's another problem, yours. You need another mechanic or another car.

also older cars in the 150Kplus range tend to leak a little oil I found out with mine but only maybe a pint every couple thousand or so from rear engine seals according to my better mechanic, who noticed a small oil drip in rear...... but he didn't exploit the matter and said it's only a small price to pay: Oil's cheap compared to the cost of fixing it...

but a half pint every 200miles that's not good: again consider a replacement after getting another opinion... or letting the first mechanic fix it at no extra charges or almost no charge.

cars don't last for ever and you could probably buy a better old Volvo for the costs of what you're putting into this one.

I had a creepy experience with the first mechanic on my ol Volvo:

temp. was redlining and couldn't see the reason??? I took it in and he couldn't find the problem .., and then said I needed a HeadGasket job as he thought the coolant was leaking into oil etc...(even though his coolant checker said the coolant looked clean) BS!!! (It only needed tweeking of the temp. gauge!!) At least I only lost about 140 bucks for a new thermostat (a 29 overpriced piece of junk which the mechanic cut the valve out of in order to solve the "overheating problem") ... and new cooleant and oil change.)

Even my first mechanic would have called me first with approximate costs in such a high cost job as yours. If your guy just went ahead and did all the things (he said he did???) without leaving a message or getting back with you... you need to sue!!! (but get your car first, post date the check and then stop payment!!)

or as you probably paid, get a second opinion. And then sue (if mechanic doesn't try to satisfy you at least..).

the important thing is honesty: you said "I took the car in because I wanted the following things -done- and checked out: " and he just went ahead and didn't consult with you about the prices of such and such.... he's not being honest. If he told you the approx. costs and you said go ahead .. well that's another problem, yours. You need another mechanic or another car.

also older cars in the 150Kplus range tend to leak a little oil I found out with mine but only maybe a pint every couple thousand or so from rear engine seals according to my better mechanic, who noticed a small oil drip in rear...... but he didn't exploit the matter and said it's only a small price to pay: Oil's cheap compared to the cost of fixing it...

but a half pint every 200miles that's not good: again consider a replacement after getting another opinion... or letting the first mechanic fix it at no extra charges or almost no charge.

cars don't last for ever and you could probably buy a better old Volvo for the costs of what you're putting into this one.

Don't take all the messages seriously, everyone get's screwed sometime. Chris made a good point about cost. Look between the sarcastic replies and check out some of the advice, better luck next time.

The parts and labor bill is decent especially for Volvo parts. It doesn't take long to run up $1000 in labor charges either. Less than two days' work; and the head gasket alone is the better part of a thou at most places. And up.

The oil leak is very possibly from the plug in the back of the head. Those stupid plugs are notorious for leaking. Additionally, the valve cover gaskets often leak from the rear corners and drip down the back of the head, and onto the exhaust exactly where you said they did.

Possibly, the oil trap itself (under the intake manifold) is clogged, causing high crankcase pressure and contributing to the ongoing leak.

--
1992 940 wagon, 72k

Steve,

This mechanic's name wasn't Ben Dover by any chance??? If it's not, from what you've told us, it should be. Don't go back unless your bring an attorney and/ or a ball peen hammer!

I always knew Minn was a liberal state, but you paid this guy to screw you? Wow!! Such a deal.

Sorry. Nothing personal. Ignore sexual content. Please.

I guess the only thing I should have wrote: You shoulda come here first.

Oil leak: Cam cover gasket or more likely rear cam plug. But the buttf*cker didn't replace this, tells me he's doing you without protection. First find the small nipple orifices for those "pcv" lines and unplug them. Then replace the plug and buy (or fab) the safety device that holds the plug from complete blow out. Did this SOB even take the head off?

New valves? What the fuck, over?
Welded rear TA bushes? Dude, did you swallow?
This guy should be arrested for spreading communicable diseases.

The rest was just sloppy thirds and coming back for more when he had you near. At this point I would sue his perverted ass.



--
http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

The head gasket is rarely the source of an oil leak. As the other poster says, did he even remove the head? Can you see the clean edges of the new gaskets at head, manifolds, valve cover etc? I would be wary of that "mechanic".
--
David Hunter

I can see why he "loves" Volvos. It sounds like there was some serious love making going on.

I stand Un-corrected. He either took advantage of you or didn't know what the hell he was doing. I'm glad that you said a acquaintance and not a friend recommended him.

You have an appointment to take it back in?
You got screwed a couple of times over. Don't go back there unless it's to shake him by the ankles until $2000 fall out of his pockets.

Yes, you got screwed. A head gasket is never the cause of an external oil leak. If something is leaking down the back of the engine, it is probably either one of the plugs in the back of the head or the valve cover gasket. The rear engine oil seal can also leak on the exhaust. Sometimes front engine oil seals leak and oil gets blown to the back of the engine by wind while driving. Start by cleaning the engine thorougly with degreaser. Once things are clean, finding the origin of the oil leak should be easier.

If the car starts and runs better when there is a vacuum leak, I would suggest cleaning the throttle body. If you haven't done this before, read the FAQ and/or buy the kit from IPD. This is job you can do yourself without the help of your scam-artist "mechanic". Be sure to clean out the vacuum ports with a small nail or drill bit. Clean out other vacuum ports on the intake manifold also. Also check the IAC (idle air control) valve for cleanliness and proper operation. Make sure the the TPS (throttle position) switch is adjusted correctly. It is a thin black box located on the back side of the throttle body. It should 'click' just as you open the throttle.

The old trailing arm bushing was beaten up so bad because the "mechanic" did not use the correct tool to replace it. Welding is never required when replacing suspension bushings.

You really need to find someone else to work on your car, or else do the work yourself. This bozo is a complete waste of your time and money. Good luck.


--
Matt L. -- Cary, NC -- '89 740 sedan -- '91 740 wagon

I'll bet that she's leaking from the plug in the back of the cylinder head. Stick a small mirror between the firewall and the back of the head and you'll see what I mean. My feeling is that you probably didn't need a new headgasket unless there were other symptoms.

Hot start problem...have you tried resoldering the fuel pump relay?

What really bothers me is...why the hell did he replace your catalytic convertor and intake valves. Timing belt was probably routine maintenace, you needed the bushings...but the cat. convertor and head job do not seem warranted given your symptoms. Also, I really hate to sound like a jerk (well, ok, sometimes I rather enjoy it) but how do you know that he actually replaced the head gasket and valves??

I would say...take it to a good, reputable indy. VOLVO shop, not a rice rocket garage. Ask 'em for a second opinion on the headgasket, etc. And have 'em look at that plug in the head and your fuel pump relay.

-=Bob=-