I appear to have a leak from the oil return pipe from the turbo. Its leaking where the pipe enters the block. Is is possible to change this o-ring without dropping loosening the manifold?? I have been trying for a while to get the pipe out and am not having much luck.


Matt

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'82 240 - 144k; '87 760T 133k

I did this just this morning on a Mitsu-equipped 940. It helps to remove the cotter pin on the wastegate actuator rod, then the inboard front bolt from the wastegate. Swing that away and you have good access from below to remove the two screws at the turbo end of the pipe. The o-ring on the block side goes in easily if you grease it, slide it onto the pipe, insert the pipe, and secure the two top screws. Use a mirror and lamp to ensure the o-ring is square in the block against the lip. I used a popsicle stick to push the o-ring up against the lip.

Yes, it is. If you need, disconnect the wastegate actuator from your turbo, take the bolts out of the return pipe and remove the pipe. When putting new gasket in, make sure you put the gasket on the pipe, not set in the block when installing.

A quick and pretty sure fix to your problem without doing any of this: Buy some instant gasket and cover the return line at the block. Viola! no more leak.

If you do change the bottom gasket, also change the one at the top of the pipe, killing two birds with one stone.

Roguls
New York, USA

I have done this exact replacement several times, and I have never loosened the exhaust manifold. I don't need the potential problems of broken exhaust studs and blown gaskets.
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john

John,

I read some of your info int he FAQ. So if I can remove the two bolts on the flange, I can remove the tube?? I just finished exhaust, turbo service, manifold gasket, etc... Encountered a broken stud in the head along the way. Managed to drill out and re-tap fairly easily. I am not about to crack into the manifold again! How do the permatex silicone solutions work. I would agree that cleanliness and elimination of all oil/grease is very important here. If I were to take this approach, what is the ideal sealant to use. I know that some permartex is anerobic, I assume I would need something that cures IN the presence of air.

Thanks,

Matt





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'82 240 - 144k; '87 760T 133k

You don't need any sealant on the gasket or o-ring. Just a little grease on the o-ring. Install the o-ring on the drain tube and insert it into the block. Then twist and turn the oil drain tube into place on the bottom of the turbocharger. Install which ever bolt is easiest to install remembering to have the gasket in place. Work the gasket into position and twist, turn and pry on the turbo drain tube until you can get to second bolt installed. I found it easiest to replace the socket head allen bolts with hex head screws, although using a hex bit socket driver may be easiest when you have to force the bolt straight while turning it.
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john

I have done it by loosening the turbo from the manifold (4 nuts) and pulling away slightly. This gives a little more play. You may need to loosen coolant lines and oil in line at top to do it completely. Just remember to keep that oil in line area clean. Do not try to set new speed records performing the task and you won't be disappointed.

dick

Which turbo are we discusing Garret or Mitso? I tried to remove the tube on my Garret equiped 87 and could not. I didn't try removing waste gate linkage however.The fix which lasted 20k until a stuck wastegate blew the motor was silacone. I cleaned everything with starting fluid which evaporates guick and leaves no residue.

I have removed both G-ratt and Mitsu. These have been the smaller units. If yours is the older larger turbo, that may be another problem which does not lend itself to easy removal. Can you get the small studs out of the turbo which hold the pipe on? I have seen some folks recommending removing them and replacing with a regular bolt, just for situations as yours.

Tough one,

dick