Greetings:

We have a 1990 245. Just got a quote to replace both rear rotors: $168.00 in parts, $538.75 in labor. Is this excessive? The quote is from one in a successful chain of tire stores in Alaska.

How difficult is the rotor replacement? I have replaced pads and had drums turned in older trucks with brake drums, but never have worked on these calipers. Probably doable? or leave it to the pros? Any hints would be welcome. Thanks.

I agree with what everyone else has said - basically an easy job. I'd just add

1) Definitely replace the pads too. Take the old ones out first of all, as it gives more clearance for jiggling the rotor clear of the caliper.

2) Do hang the caliper on wire - don't let it hang on the brake pipes

3) Be careful when starting the caliper bolts back in the holes. They need to be aligned quite carefully or you can cross the threads. Fingers only to get them started.

4) Be wary of simply levering the pistons back into the caliper to get clearance for the new pads. The recommended procedure is to release the excess fluid via the bleed screws, NOT to force it back up the pipes to the master cylinder. This can damage the seals in the MC, and send old deposited crud from the caliper back up into the system.

5) Use a really good quality tool on the bolts, with a proper fit. They can be very tight and may need a hammer to start them turning. You don't want rounded off bolts here - as Don says, they are pretty inaccessible.

6) Make sure the new rotors really fit home on the hubs, with no run-out. New ones on old rusty hubs may need a bit of cleaning/grinding to get a snug fit.

Good list, Cliff. Just one more thing. If the parking brake shoes hang up it is a good idea to have a few shoe retainer clips on hand. These are easy to come by at the recycler.

"The quote is from one in a successful chain of tire stores in Alaska."

At those labor costs, it's no surprise that they're profitable.

Beyond what the others said about the parking brake binding a bit (and they're right), the only other trick is unbolting the calipers and swinging them aside. But it's very easy.

Also, on a '90, don't forget that you must also unscrew the alignment stud.

Replacing both rotors should take less than an hour, total.

Toss in new pads while you're in there.

To calibrate your expectations, review FCP Groton's prices for 240 brake parts (opens a new browser window).

--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

To compare prices, rear rotors are about $25 each at NAPA. They are from China (not OE for sure), but I've had no problem on at least 3 cars I can think of.

The labor charge seems way too much for a 1 to 2hr job at most. As noted below, the only real problem is (if - it may not happen) the brake shoes are "keyed" to the drum. Be sure the brake lever is fully released.

If the shoes still bind, pop off the ashtray and plastic tray mount at the back of the center console. Look inside with a light to see a 17mm bolt head looking back at you. That's the cable tensioner adjustment. Give it a few CCW turns to further relax the brake cables. (Tighten it again when your done, so the Parking Brakes hold when the handle is pulled up 3 or 4 clicks.)

Another thing I do, when pulling a rear caliper, is to first remove the "tank guard/weight" (I don't know its real function) at the back of the caliper. This makes it much easier to pull the caliper back away from the rotor (especially with the pads still in place). It's a 17mm bolt, as are the 2 caliper bolts.

For all 3 bolts I use a box-end wrench and a BF hammer to knock them loose, as the coil spring makes using a standard socket & extension impossible (IMO).
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

FYI, FCPGroton sells ATE rear rotors for $23 a piece. I believe ATE is a German company...?
--
Kenric Tam
1990 Volvo 740 base sedan (B230F)
My Volvo 'Project'

No, it`s not, it`s bloody daylight robbery!!!

Do it yourself, 2 hours max. and save $600.

Lots of help on this board in the unlikely event you have problems.

Colin.

They're pretty easy to do. Unbolt the caliper and hang it off to the side with a wire or whatever. Remove the small 10mm bolt holding the rotor on. Release parking brake to ungrip pads from the drum surface (parking brakes are basically drum brakes). Pull off rotor.

As MittenHed indicates your main prob may be trying to get the rotor by the drum pads that may be stuck in a groove in the inner surface. You may be able to reach through the large hole in the rotor to unhook a spring in order to allow pads more movement.

You're in Alaska, but you can check FCPGroton.com for prices.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

rear rotors? job is easy if it's similar to my 90 740. labor is excessively high.

whole job should take less than 1 hour if the rotors aren't stuck. 2 if they are.

parts are less than $100 if mail ordered.
--
Kenric Tam
1990 Volvo 740 base sedan (B230F)
My Volvo 'Project'

Labor seems a little high. The job is not too tough. Release parking brake, use pusher holes to start rotor off. Pry, beat and thrash. Hung up parking brakes can make it harder.

I just did this very job today. Took me 1 hour, only because I was taking my time chatting to a neighbour. Block front wheels if on a slope. Pull off rear wheel. Make sure handbrake is released. Press brake pistons in as far as they will go to allow caliper to fit over new disk/pads. Remove guide pins and anti rattle spring. Pull out pads and shims if fitted. Undo the two bolts holding on caliper, 13mm. Pull caliper out the way. Undo 10mm bolt on disk/drum component. pull off disk/drum. Refit all. All done.