If not, is there something that functions like a ballast resistor. My car has a problem that acts like a ballast resistor problem. It wants to run while the car is cranking, but dies immediatly when the key is released.

thanks for any help.

Lawrence

Hello,
I ran a wire from the unfused side of fuse no.12(there was a blade available, and according to the wiring diagram, it doest seem, to me, that it makes a difference.

I did find out that the brown wire has to remain in place in order for the car to run. Is this correct? Im getting over 13 volts now, and the car starts every time, but I now have two wires on the 15 side of the coil.

Thanks again

Lawrence

With LH, you should have the "Volvo/Chrysler" ignition, which means no Ballast resistor.

But you can get this same symptom from resistance in the Brown wire circuit feeding the Coil Primary terminal # 15. You can check it by running a jumper fron Battery Positive directly to Coil #15.

If it starts with the jumper, post back and I'll have the wiring figured out that may be the problem.
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

Thanks for the response.
Yeah I finally figured out that there is no ballast resistor.

Here is where things stand now: Car wouldnt start for three days. In that time I did various checks, changed a couple of parts. Got no response.
Then night before last I pulled the big connector from the ECU and did voltage and resistace checks. Everthing meausured within normal parameters.

I put things back together, and returned the next day to take one more look at the spark. while I had No.1 spark plug removed from its hole, and grounded on the engine, cranking the engine, the car started.

But now Im really paranoid, because I know the next trip to the store is going to leave me stranded in the parking lot again.

Im thinking perhaps an intermittent condition in the ignition switch, or, perhaps the brown wire from terminal 15 on the coil is a bit ifffy.

Or did removing the connector from the ecu break some corrosion loose?

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Lawrence

I was hoping to find some LH 1.0 nuggets here. Yours is a rare system.

You could eliminate the coil voltage question like Bruce suggests, but if it has no ballast resistor it may have another cranking-only function. Early LH2.0 used a lead -- I forget whether blue/yellow from the starter switch or the brown from the ballast shorting terminal on the solenoid -- but it told the ECU (pin 4?) to open up the injectors longer, as a cranking enrichment or accelerator pump substitute, as the early (and late) LH cars had no cold start injector. If rich makes it run, there's the probability the AMM has gone to the lean side, very common in LH2.0-- and I've heard those AMM's are very close. I think you have the -001 AMM. Don't know by experience, but I'd think trying with the AMM disconnected might rule it out just as it does for the later LH cars.

Questions that would interest me: (1) does your starter have two small blade connectors in use and (2) what Bosch number is on your ECU? Don't know how much the answers would help you, but if you just happen to know I'd be grateful. None of the books I have cover this 1982 LH jet - I think.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

thanks for the reply. Weve narrowed the problem down to not enough voltage present a No.15 on the coil. I intend to run another wire to solve the problem.

In response to your questions:

It does have a cold start valve.

The starter does have two small blade connectors in use.

The number on the ECU is 0 280 000 500.

Manufactered 9/81.

I can get the Amm number tomorrow, if you want it. To cold and wet out at the moment.

thanks

Lawrence

You're right it is a shunned offspring. A real odd ball. A good runner though. Must be gettin up around 300,000(odometer broke)

I read the good news! 2.4V is really low.

Thank you for checking that ECU number and the starter wiring. I'm surprised to hear it has a cold start valve; I wonder what turns it on-- a thermo-time switch like on K-jet maybe?

Also, I checked my LH2.0 car. The cranking signal to the ECU is done with the yellow/blue from the ignition switch, so there is only one spade terminal on the starter (#50) in use. The ballast bypasser (#16) is unused, as it has no ballast resistor. So I was surprised to hear you have two lugs used. And Bruce mentioned chasing the brown wire from starter #16 back somewhere... Hmmm.

Is your coil on the driver's side or by the hood hinge on the passenger side? Here's what mine looks like on a k-jet car, with the ballast resistor in the foreground:

No, I have, whats referred to in my volvo electrical manual for 1982, the "computer controlled ignition system". The manual calls the one pictured in your post the "breakerless electronic ignition system". Probably two different ways of saying basically the same thing. Huh?

In regards to the wiring on the starter, you're probably right. I really hadnt looked that close. I can see blue/yellow(looks like two, but on the same terminal). And then the brown.

Thanks for the nice photos.

Lawrence

"Computer Controlled vs. Breakerless Electronic" does sound like marketing terms for the same thing. I guess in 1982 computers were viewed as something special, just like in the 70's electronics in the car was worthy of advertising on the trunk (EFI, etc). But the module I pictured is nothing more than a transistorized ignition (amplifier) married to the reluctor pickup in the distributor. The one you have, assuming it looks like the ones in LH2.0 and LH2.2 cars does have a microprocessor on its board and controls timing based on its input from the distributor, knock sensor and manifold vacuum. So I guess that qualifies it as being a "computer".

So back to the subject... It seems a contradiction for you to have a brown wire with that computerized system, as I understood it to do the ballast function internally, without need to use the starter solenoid contact. But that could be answered in the transition of the design being done in 82, so I think you still have a very valid question about the ballast resistor. Lucid has a wiring diagram for yours, I gather, so I'd be very interested in where that brown wire goes. The blue/red in my later cars is hot in key position II (run) and III (crank), so I wouldn't think it necessary to run an extra brown wire from the starter contact to power the coil, unless that is one of the wiring changes made 82 to 83 in LH cars.

Sorry to wax verbose, especially to someone who's car is working!
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Lawrence,

Was it any warmer out when the car started? I have the notion (no proof) that cold has an adverse effect on connections that are marginal. And given that, you may well have "fixed" something at the ECU connector.

I would also take both coil primary connectors off & on a few times too. It cost my daughter $84 (hourly min. on Martha's Vineyard) to have her negative coil terminal "cleaned" that way. So I preach that a lot.

Here is the "back-track" path for the Brown coil wire— Coil #15 => to bypass terminal on Starter Solenoid => back up to and thru the Harness Plug (8-pin) on firewall => then over to some kind of "pigtail connection" with a Blue wire near the Right Hood Hinge (this is where the Ballast Resistor would be on a K-jet car).

That Blue wire then goes inside to the Hot (unfused) side of Fuse 11, which has +12v when the Key is ON. The "fix" in the privately published manual I'm getting this from recommends running a parallel wire directly from that Fuse 11 source (unfused) to the Coil #15.

In the meantime, I'd carry a jumper that can connect Battery + (or that small black junction block on the fender rail) to the Coil — just in case.

Keep us posted as they say,

Bruce
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

You are right on target Lucid. I jumpered from battery to term 15 on the coil, and the car starts and runs reliably. And you also address the other concern that I had, which is how to trace and find out where Im losing voltage. Voltage at coil, without jumper is only 2.4 volts. I dont know what i need. But I dont think thats enough.

I will be using your guide to back track later(when I get a minute). I will let you know how it comes out.

Thank you so much.

And you also address the other concern that I had, which is how to trace and find out where Im losing voltage. Personally, I'd save that for summer (or forget it), and run a direct wire to the coil as mentioned above. But it would be satisfying to fix, wouldn't it?

Voltage at coil, without jumper is only 2.4 volts. I dont know what i need. But I dont think thats enough. Nope. You need the full 12 volts.

Be careful if you do get poking around in that wiring with the infamous "biodegradable" insulation. You could easily cause more trouble than it's worth. Especially with an easy fix like an added wire.

Glad to hear it's running now. Made my day,

Bruce
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

If you do have a ballast resistor, it will be mounted on the firewall near the coil, over on the passenger side. My 1979 had one and I think the system didn't change that much.

It's an odd looking thing. Length of a cigarette, a little fatter, and tapered on both ends. Wire from each end, might be color brown. One goes to the coil, the other goes to a terminal on the starter.

when you find it, see how the car runs with a jumper wire across it.


Good Luck,

Bob

:>)