thanks everyone for your knowledgeable advice, I probably taking guYom's advice leaving it alone until the next fluid change/pad replacement, in the meantime just keep an eye on the fluid level, working on this 15 years old car it's very intimidate, I'm concern the brake hoses/fittings might break when I ready to repalce my calipers, if it's not this one will be another, but I'll be sure get all the parts on hand before I work on the brakes.

It's too late now, but when messing with the nipples I recommend following these three steps:

(1) Apply generous amounts of PBlaster or similar.
(2) After a while, give the nipple a whack on the top with a hammer (not too gentle, not too hard, and not sideways but "inwards").
(3) Insert a tight-fitting drill bit into the nipple before trying to loosen it.

Erling.
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My 240 Page

I broke my last nipple while pressure bleeding with EeziBleed.

I followed the sequence. Before starting I had spayed some PB Blaster type penetrant on all bleeders.

They all came off with ease with a closed end wrench, except the last one. I applied force and it broke right off. I should have been more patient with it. Brute force just doesn't work with these nipples. Gentle care and lot's of penetrant is the way to go!

I drove for about a week with this broken nipple (lower inner one front driver side).

And I couldn't resist.. I wanted to extract the nipple out. So against all wisdom here on the board I again applied more PB Blaster and bought an easy out from PepBoys. First easy out was too small, it wouldn't grab, but kept turning. So I returned it and took the next size up. Next size was a perfect fit, good garb, but the nipple wouldn't budge. So again I applied force. The tap wrench broke first. So I decided to use plier and grab the easy out with it, this time the easy out broke nice and clean at the edge of the nipple, plugging it. I returned easy out and tap wrench for a refund at PepBoys.

That nipple is sealed ! No fluid loss. I'll keep an eye on it. I might put a black rubber cap on it, just for the yearly inspection.

I'll worry about it in 2 years when I do my next brake fluid flush / bleed. Although I have been told I should be able to still bleed and flush with the remaining 2 nipples on that caliper.

If I am courageous, I'll throw in 2 rebuilt calipers in front.
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'89 244DL M47 159K miles

No need to bleed on a pad change.

I see no reason to replace the good caliper.

Check all 3 bleeders on the new one (I've had one break off, right out of the box.)

Contrary to some advice below, there is a definite bleed sequence for the 240 dual circuit brake system. It's in Bentley and Haynes, or I can post later.

240 Front calipers are Girling (not Ate, like the rears).

You'll want a good "flare wrench"(11mm or 7/16") for brake line fittings. Don't twist the lines - use plenty of penetrating oil and be patient. Put a little wrench pressure on the fitting, then tap the wrench with a small hammer (moderate, sharp force is better than slow, increasing force.)

Before you open the lines, prepare to Stop Brake Fluid Loss from the Master Cylinder by blocking the brake pedal depressed. It only takes an inch or so on the 240s. Disconnect the battery to keep brake lights off.

Check your rebuilt caliper for mis-matched halves (it happens!) — In the Girling 4-piston calipers, the two Upper piston chambers form an inverted U, with one common bleeder at the high point. The two Lower piston chambers form an upright U, with a bleeder at each of the two high points.

Rebuilders sometimes get the INNER and OUTER caliper halves calipers mismatched. (i.e. The Left Side INNER half, where the lines attach, will have a Right Side OUTER half paired to it — but that OUTER half will be upside down.

During the original assembly, Girling distinctly marks the bottom of each caliper half with a punch mark next to the joint. Thus, a punch mark on the TOP of an OUTER caliper half means a mismatch — and that caliper will have an unbleedable lower-outer fluid passage.
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Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Another note on bleeding the brakes.......
Always bleed the furthest one first and work your way back to the master cyl. Or for the front ....bleed the passenger side forst and then the drivers side. On the rears same. In doing all 4 start with the passenger side rear first, then the driver's side rear, then the front. Even if you have a dual master cyl it's a good practice to get into. Use a good hi-temp fluid made for disk brakes.
And like they said, use plenty of fluid as that will flush your system and get rid of moisture and sludge that might have built up over the years
Dennis

I just replace rotors on my 89 240 DL.

I have a couple of words for you.

First, I recommend replacing the pair, unless you are on a really tight budget. It just is wise.

I use rebuilt calipers from foreign auto. As I recall, they were priced about the same. They seems to work OK but I will say that the bleed nipples were kind of loose fitting. I tried to bleed the brakes with a vacuum tool and it constantly sucked air around the nipple threads.

Dont get too hung up on the crazy bleed sequences you see in the book. Just have someone step on the pedal, open the bleeder, and let it squirt. Close the bleeder and have your helper let off the brake. It does not need to be any more complicated than that. I think you may have 2 bleeders per caliper, so you will need to do both. Squirt plenty out. You will end up cleaning up your fluid this way.

Also, be careful you do not step too hard on the pedal until you bleed both breaks. If you do, you may end up pushing the piston in the brake line jusnction block. If you do, your break fail light will come on. And if your car is as used as mine, the piston may not go back into the middle where it belongs because your piston may get stuck in the gummy insides of your juction block. Been there. Done that.

For about $125 or so you should be back on the road and good as new.

2OldVolvos

If you already have new pads, you don't need "loaded" calipers. Eeuroparts.com has rebuilt calipers for $39.50 plus the sore charge, and shipping is free.
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1991 245, 61k miles, looking for a 5 speed 92-93 245 cheap.

I believe the rebuilt calipers are the OEM brand (Ate) and the company who does the rebuilding is called ACE...a little confusing! I bought rebuilt rear calipers for my '87 245 from FCP Groton and am very happy with them.

Good luck.
Bean
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'80 242GT 91k, '94 945T 110k

Most would probably tell you to replace components in pairs, and I certainly don't disagree... But I replaced one blown caliper with one rebuilt caliper on my old '84, and had no further problems.