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The tranny jack isn't necessary nor will you have room for it under the car unless you get it really high off the ground. I used 3-ton jackstands and any higher than about 18-20" things got a little shaky.
I borrowed a large floor jack (snap-on) with a 4" square foot to both remove and replace the trans. Here's another pic.
http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/Trans_under_car.jpg
With the jack's foot up against the OD things balanced nicely. The toughest part of the entire job for me was getting the car in the air. The front was easy. Jack under the car's jacking points and put the jackstands under the car's frame. The rear was tougher. I worked a little on both sides at the screwjack's lift point, back and forth until I had the car level. It might be ok to jack undet the differential or the suspension's trailing arms but I wasn't sure and didn't get an answer here. I just didn't see anywhere to lift with a floorjack.
Anyway, with the car up, disconnect the battery, remove the front portion of the center console around the top of the shifter, remove the shift boot and the four bolts holding the plate around the shifter and the rubber seal.
Haynes says to disconnect the driveshaft at the diff but with my wagon it was much easier to remove the rubber damper between the OD and front of the shaft, drop the plate under the center bearing and pull the front part of the shaft out. You'll have to loosen a bolt, turn the shaft, loosen another etc, until they're free then pull them out one at a time and turn the shaft as there's little clearance. There are small arrows machined into the shaft halves for alignment. Do yourself a BIG favor and mark everything with chalk or white paint before disassembling. Shaft misalignment will cause vibrations.
The shifter is next. Once the shaft's out of the way you'll see a small allen set screw in the end of the lever. Back it out and the pin connecting the lever with the transmissions selector rod should push out. Once it's free, you'll need to get the large circlip off from around the base of the shifter (still under the car). Angle snap ring pliers worked fine for this. From the inside of the car (disconnect the OD connector) yank out the shifter.
Next was the turbo's downpipe. Take it loose from the turbo and if the bracket holding it to the bellhousing is there, remove it. Dropping the downpipe just gives you more room to work.
The trans is still supported by it's mount so next I removed all the bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine. I have long arms and found that I could reach them all from under the car. Even the ones on top. The only one it was easier to work from the top was the one about 1 o'clock facing the rear of the engine.
With the slave cylinder removed put the floor jack under the trans, as close to the OD as you can. Roll it in from the front of the car. Jack it up and support the trans. Remove the trans mounting plate. Using a bit of patience and another body if possible ( I did it alone twice ) lower the jack slightly and push/pull the trans free.
http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/Trans_under_car.jpg
Once clear of the engine, lower the jack, and if there's enough clearance, roll the trans out. My car wasn't stable any higher than I had it so I had to pick the trans up off the jack and walk it out carefully.
http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/896faaa3.jpg
Looking at the above pic, you'll notice at 4 o'clock a dowel or locating pin on the crankcase. Just below it is a little cutout. The easiest way to hold the flywheel while loosening the clutch and flywheel bolts is to stick a 13mm open end wrench in this pocket and the flywheel's teeth will jam against it. There are shortcuts everywhere if you look hard enough. Thanks Sven.
Before removing the clutch hose everything down with brake parts cleaner. NO COMPRESSED AIR. There's likely asbestos present and you want to wash it away, not make it airborne.
I think my clutch bolts were 6mm hex so I used a bit on a ratchet to remove the pressure plate. First I put a plastic clutch centering tool to hold the plate in place. (Autozone sells the same one IPD does for $1.25 instead of $6. Remove PP & clutch disc, noting which way round the disc is mounted. The flat side goes front and the spring pack goes to the rear.
Since you're pulling the flywheel, mark it's location relative to the crank as some have magnetic triggers for the ignition. Make sure the salvage yard part you found is identical. FWIW, my 190,000 mile flywheel didn't need resurfacing.
It's recommended the FW bolts be replaced but I reused mine. Loctite them and torque to spec. Same for the PP bolts.
You should seriously consider replacing the rear seal while you're in this deep. Also, check the clutch release arm and pivot ball for wear. If they look like this pic, a new clutch isn't going to help. This is why I went into mine to begin with. The arm fractured and let the slave cylinder piston travel too far and jam. Instant parked car.
http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/06d5376a.jpg
Here's a pic of the trans ready to go back on. New release arm & pivot, release bearing, trans input shaft seal (requires you remove bell housing from trans (easy, just the 4 bolts you see. You'll need a new gasket between the BH & trans.)
http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/896faaa3.jpg
In the immortal words of Haynes, "Installation is the reverse of removal."
Good luck,
http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/Untitled-1_copy.jpg
You'll need good snap ring pliers, internal & external, torque wrench, loctite, various metric tools. Here's my operating table.
http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/523e7ac7.jpg
Erwin
erwin_roman@hotmail.com
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Erwin in Memphis, '88 745t 190,000 miles, '95 855t 92,000 miles
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