Hi All
I have a frozen A/C condenser(so of course no power steering)and am looking at my options: 1)Take working condenser off parts Volvo and replace or 2)Run a different size belt from engine pulley directly to power steering pump(but then you leave the alternator with only one drive belt..). Anybody try #2? Did single alternator belt hold up? What size belt(part#)? Your thoughts are appreciated.
Matt M

Do you mean a seized compressor or clutch? Your title of 'frozen condenser' may be throwing would-be respondents off. The condenser is the coil (looks like a radiator) that sits in front of the car's radiator. The evaporator coil can/does freeze up, but never the condenser.

Hi All
Thx for the heads up! I am referring to the clutch not the condenser. I was on the way home from Vacation and it started smelling bad as the belt started slipping and then finally 2 miles from home it siezed....lovely!

Did you turn it off (a/c) when you started 'smelling' the problem? If the compressor itself seized up, then turning it off would allow the clutch to freewheel - and you shouldn't have to change anything until you get ready to replace the compressor. In other words, with the a/c off, the clutch should just freewheel without any resistance to rotation. On the other hand, even with the a/c turned off, if it's still resisting turning, then perhaps it's just the clutch/bearing that went bad - that's a much easier fix than replacing the compressor and re-charging the system.

As the A/C hasnt worked for years(4) the A/C was and is in the off position and it is now fully seized. Living in CT I have been able to do without. Is there a good reference on the web for doing the bearing/clutch job? I am just looking for the quickest/cheapest fix that I can do and have it last for a couple more years....Thx

Best bet is to just find one that turns on any 240 of roughly the same vintage. Anything 85-92 actually should work just fine. There are tons of good rotating units that are worthless due to leaks or whatever. A yard that allows you to pull your own parts couldn't justify getting more than $10 for one. Cut the hoses,
If you can't find any in a yard up your way, try Autowerkes in New London. They have a bunch of parts cars and are reasonable.
(860) 443-1066 or www.theautowerkes.com

Good luck.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 229K, 88 744GLE- 218K, 82 245T-181K Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 87 244DL, 239K, 88 245DL, 246K

He just needs the clutch/bearing - no hoses to cut.

Sorry Mike, I disagree. A bad clutch should just free spin, unless the compressor is locked up. He needs a compressor.

Chris

His compressor hasn't been used for 3 years - the a/c was off when this happened. If the clutch is working properly, the compressor can be seized solid, and it won't make any difference. The compressor isn't engaged at all unless/until the clutch is energized. With the a/c off (especially for 3 years cause it's not working), the clutch should freewheel. If it's not freewheeling with the a/c off, the problem's the clutch, not the compressor.

Yep, a driver might think his AC is off when that 79-90 thermostatic knob is not quite past the leftmost detent. Nice warm day, lots of heat under the hood, long seized compressor, what gas is left trips the low pressure switch and the clutch engages. By the time the smoke clears and the belt burns through, the clutch and bearing are so heat distorted and lubeless the pulley is locked to the seized compressor, or at least a far cry from "freewheeling".

When the AC has been abandoned, it is a good idea to pull one of those green wires - either at the clutch or where it is easily reached on the dryer. He should get a JY compressor and leave it unpowered, although that 240 rack isn't really bad unassisted.

That's good counsel for others. For this guy, what led me to my conclusions was the fact I doubt he'd "think" it's been off for 3 years.

Hi Mike
You seem to have the best solution. If I go to a dealer and just say I need the a/c clutch/bearings repaired/replaced should they know what I am talking about? AND if so what is the "book time" I should expect to pay? Thx again, Matt

Hi all I was just looking again and it sort a looks like if I am willing to stand on one belt to the Alternator I could just get a diff size belt and bypass..a little tight around the timing belt cover....any thoughts?

Using the belt like this will cut the timing cover. In half. Through the timing mark.
It's your car, do what ya want. A not-seized compressor is probably cheap enough, and it keeps the rest of the car working the way it's designed to.
My wife's 740 had at least 60K on a dead compressor, my own 240 has it's original compressor at 230K, my old 86 had 215K on it when I sold it, with the AC not working since at least 155K, 4 years before.
Finding the belt that fits will require a bit of trial-and-error and it's likely to wear out the bushings fast- if they're not already shot.
By the way, one of my neighbors has a '90 244 that's a European delivery car- it was ordered without AC, and has the PS pump down low. That's an interesting setup to see in this country. Other than that, it's all US spec. The belts do what you're trying to do, without getting creative.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 229K, 88 744GLE- 218K, 82 245T-181K Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 87 244DL, 239K, 88 245DL, 246K

Others will have to help on this approach; the 4 cylinder in my 242 has gone missing...