Gang, will the Lisle strut nut tool P/N LIS63400 work on the recessed strut nut on the 240's?

I have found conflicting stories in the archives as to whether this tool works for 240's...

I need to get donor strut assemblies from the junkyard and I don't want to have to buy the springs and strut inserts as well, thus the reason for getting this tool... I also don't have access to a cordless impact wrench.

can anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks.

Mike

Thanks guys!

I really appreciate your advice. I will probably pick up the lisle tool. I thought about the IPD tool but it looks flimsy and other reports here say that it isn't the best for LOOSENING the nut.

The issue with impact wrenchs... is it the hammering ability or the speed that allows the nut to be loosened without counterholding?

Mike

It worked on mine. I used Sachs Advantage strut inserts. However, the tool wouldn't quite fit over the top of the strut center shaft. The shaft has two flat sides at the top to hold with the special tool. I had to file the flats a bit to get the tool to fit over so I could hold the shaft while tightening the nut.
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Thanks everyone for all the information and advice, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, B21F (non-Turbo), M46; 86 244, B230, 140k , auto.

I've used that Lisle strut tool with mixed results. We used it on two 240s. The first one went fine. On the second, the strut nut came off ok on one side but, on the other side, the nut was so hard to move that the Lisle tool just shattered. Little pieces of metal flew all over. The store gave me a new tool. I borrowed an impact wrench and even that had a tough time loosening the nut. I didn't want to risk the Lisle tool on the second nut.

The tool isn't expensive, and it ma work fine for you. Just hope you don't get one of those really stuck strut nuts.

Question. I just re-read you message. If you want the whole strut assembly and are not replacing the insert, why don't you just unbolt the whole strut at top and bottom (un-bolt the ball joint mount) and take it out that way? Or am I missing something?

I have used the #63400 tool for years. But bring a good sharp file with you to the yard. I have often had to "tweak" the strut tip to get a good fit with the tool.

I'm talking about the ends that are shaped like a "race track", i.e., 2 straight sides, two 180° curves. Some fit OK, some don't. Not the tool's fault, just variation among strut brands.

I use an 11/16" or 16mm box end to hold the center part of the tool, braced against the hood arm mechanism. Then turn the outer part (i.e.the nut) with a pipe wrench and cheater pipe. (I never had the proper 3/8" box end wrench.)

Some are really tight. Speedy shop techs using an impact wrench maybe. The torque according to Bentley is only 15 ft lb, which should be plenty, with a new nut in that application, IMO.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Like Lucid, I found the Lisle tool wouldn't fit the strut cartridge's 'oval' protruding top. And I would have been filing for a long time to get the oval small enough to fit the biggest of Lisle's provided tool segments. The disclaimer here is that we bought the 81 with 250k mi so perhaps those weren't the original strut cartridges - but they did have the Volvo logo stamped into their housings...they also said "Made in Japan". Anyway the tool didn't even come close to fitting.

My impact wrench did the removal job on the old cartridges. The Lisle tool did fit the new Boge Turbogas cartridges perfectly.
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Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)