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I may have done a not-so-smart thing when I sanded down the roof on my car. I used a sanding disk on my grinder tool. This can removal material pretty fast, so I was careful not to use too much pressure. As I was sanding at the middle of the roof, I noticed the roof was getting warm (not glowing or discolored by any means), I heard a hollow "plunk" sound and noticed the roof caved in just slightly. I thought it would come back out when it cooled down, but now it seems I have a permanent deflection here. I wonder if there's an unobtrusive way of trying to get the sheet metal back out like using a hairdryer or a heat gun while I somehow pull it simultaneously. I don't want to go through the hassle of removing the headliner. The deflection is relatively large - maybe 5" diameter, but shallow, maybe 1/16" deep. If there are no Q&D tricks I can use, then I'll probably just use some filler to bring it up flush - I have some Evercoat Rage filler that seems to be pretty good. Hope to hear from some autobody gurus out there!
Kåre
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I got the suction cup from Harbor Freight and tried first with a regular hair dryer. Pulled until my face turned red, but could see much measurable difference. Next I tried with a heat gun and warmed up the roof enough to melt the paint. Tried again with the suction cup and this time I could literally feel the roof coming up (with much less force too). As it cooled down, it seems like it shrunk a little bit back to the old shape, but I've definitely reduced the trough. I still need some filler up there, but am pretty happy with the result, especially since I didn't have to remove the headliner.
Kåre
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Thanks for your suggestions. I had a closer look tonight and there is a beam going across the roof right behind the ceiling light. I pressed on this in a few strategic places. A very subjective assessment says it helped a tiny bit, well maybe not at all...? I will try the heating/shock cooling first with a hair dryer. I have a feeling that such a large flat piece of sheet metal will very easily warp, so maybe it doesn't take that much to bring it back either.
George, I like your idea too, but will have to find some type of suction cup first.
I'll give an update after I've tried the heat/cool stunt.
Kåre
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Harbor Freight carries one. Have one, and it's worked before, though on a Mazda with much thinner sheet metal than a Volvo.
-- Kane
--
Blossom II -'91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles -'74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup -'86 245GL/AW70 The Wayback Machine -'64 P220/M40 ... The ParaBox -'90 745GL/AW70
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Thanks for the tip. Price is $4.99.... that suction cup has my name written all over it :)
Kåre
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Have you tried a plumber's friend or a vacuum dent puller?
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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You could try to heat it and then suddenly cool it by throwing water over it. This will 'shrink' the metal, but it's a rather uncontrolled process.
cheers, ben
--
P131, '65, B20B+M47. P131, '69, B20E+AW71L+LSD. (www.tinustechniek.tk)
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I have seen metal shunk by the heating and then cooled with a wet cloth. A other way is to heat a small spot red hot then hit it with a hammer and dolly. trouble either of these ways you need to be able to work both sides of the roof. So the head liner has to come out.
Joel
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'I was standing up there, and a little later my friend ran over it'
Hard to picture... I guess theres a story, long or short, in every little dent and dimple. Mine (I've got two up there) came from hauling heavy stuff on the roof... A complete Ford Model A rear end to be specific. I don't have any idea what to do about them short of hiding the dents with a roof rack. They don't show, but oh they will when I get the car painted...
-Matt
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-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
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