The starter motor is turning the engine but there's no spark it is an electrical problem you see my car hasn't been started in 4 years because it needed a new engine and when I finally got a new one and replaced the old one it wouldn't start. Here are the symptoms:

-No spark coming out from the coil. I check the terminals to see if they are live and it seems like they are. A spark appears when I ground terminal 1 of the coil and the fuel pump turns on too.

-The dash warning lights don't turn on only the oil, OD, and parking lights turn on when starting the engine.

-The tachometer runs wildly some times

-When the battery is high and I start the engine the fuel pump doesn't turn on even with no fuel pressure and when the battery is low and the starter stops turning the engine I leave the key in starting mode and when I turn it to run mode the fuel pump turns on

-When the key is turned to on mode the idle speed valve starts vibrating. Is it suppose to do that?

-It wont start when I put it in neutral

I checked the fuses and they are not broken or melted. I think maybe the problem is the ECU or the impulse sender but I don't know how to check that and I don't know of anyone who has another 1982 240 only a 1983 and there isn't an Auto Zone over here.
I looked for a mechanic who is experienced in Volvos but he never comes. if you know any tips or some one who might help you figure out what my problem is I would greatly appreciate it. Ill send you more info if you need it as soon as possible. Thanks


Darwin.

Well it could be several things. While cranking the engine, put a meter on the + lead going to the coil. It shouldn't go below like 10.5 volts. If it does, then I would check the ignition switch. What kind of condition is your engine bay wiring harness in? It also sounds like you have an alternator problem since the dash lights are not coming on with the key on. Did you change any wiring when you put the new engine in? What year of 240 did the new engine come from?

I disconected some of the wires in the engine compartment to be able to replace the old engine for a new one but i conected them all again. The wiring harness has some conecters pretty mest up but ill fix those this weakend. I dont know what year the new engine is but i know the old one sed it was a b21 engine and the new one says b21f i didnt see diffrences in it but im pretty sure there must be one. how can the alternator be the problem for the dash lights? Only the Oil,and the OD lights turn on when I turn the key on start mode.

Try taking the small red wire off of the alternator and grounding it out with the key in the II position. Do the lights come on? The small red wire is the exciter wire for the alternator.I had an '86 wagon do this to me once. Did you try checking the voltage at the coil when cranking the engine over?

how can the alternator be the problem for the dash lights?

Use the SEARCH at the bottom of the window, search on pre-exitation for info on the Warning Light-to-Alternator circuit (4 lights).

The Oil light comes on because the Pressure switch is closed (no pressure with engine not running).

The OD light must mean the OD switch is ON, and the tranny is in 4th gear (or the wiring has a short to ground).
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

The dash lights finally turned on grounding the red in my car its orange wire but how can I fix it so it can work in the right place. I checked the black wire that goes to the inside of the car and it looks ok (no broken perts) althought it wasn't coated its exposed at the end but I can't see where the wire ends up maybe thats where the problem is.

I haven't been able to check for a volt drop at the coil when cranking the engine becouse I dont have any one to help me. What will happend if it drops less than 10 and how can I fix it.

"The dash lights finally turned on grounding the red in my car its orange wire but how can I fix it so it can work in the right place. I checked the black wire that goes to the inside of the car..."

The problem is at the Alternator (not inside the car). You proved that when grounding the red wire turned the lights on.

The +12V is applied to those 4 bulbs at Key ON. The path to ground (for the bulbs to light) is from the Instrument unit to the firewall plug,
- then via the red wire to the alternator,
- then thru the alternator "internals" (I don't know how yours is configured) to the alternator body/housing,
- then thru a separate ground wire (usually Blue, and hard to see underneath the alt), from a the back of the alt (8mm nut),
- to a bolt that holds the alt mounting bracket to the engine block.

I can't speculate on the no-spark without knowing which Ignition system you have ('82 was a transitional year, and your PR location also adds to the mix). Is there a "black box" with a Blue label on top, down low on the right side, just ahead of the windshield washer tank?

Or is it a smaller Bosch unit near the coil?
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Yes it has a black box which I think its called an Ignition Control Unit but it does'nt have a blue lable on it like i've seen in the 240 '83s. I checked the voltage drop on the (+) coil and it drop more than 10.5v like someone told me it read 9.3v How can the ignition switch be the problem for that?

Then you have the Volvo/Chrysler Ignition system.

"I checked the voltage drop on the (+) coil and it drop more than 10.5v like someone told me it read 9.3v How can the ignition switch be the problem for that?"

I think you are saying that the +12 voltage at the coil dropped TO 9.3v when cranking. If so, this may be hard to diagnose and explain. The normal voltage path to the coil has many connections, any of which may be corroded and not conducting properly — especially in a car that has not run in 4 years.

But — there is a special voltage path to the coil that is just used just for starting. It comes from a Brown wire at Starter teminal #16.
It's purpose is to give the Coil a full 12v when the starter is cranking.
Once the engine is started, the coil voltage then comes through a Resistor (white porcelain cylinder) near the right hood hinge.
The resistor reduces the coil voltage for cooler running.

For Starting, the Brown wire at the starter gets FULL Battery voltage when the starter is engaged for cranking.
From Starter #16, the Brown wire goes to the "running" Resistor up near the right hood hinge area.
At the resistor, it connects to another Brown wire, which goes to Coil #15, where you tested and got 9.3 volts.

It is possible the 9.3v you saw was the reduced "running" voltage — and you are not getting the FULL +12v from the Starter terminal #16.
Or — it may be just that your battery is not fully charged, and is weak from all this trying to start.
I doubt you have an Ignition Switch problem if the starter is working.

TRY THIS: Run a temporary jumper wire directly from the Battery + to Coil + 15, and see if you then get a spark while cranking.
You can leave this wire connected if the engine starts, otherwise take it off when you are through testing.

The Normal running voltage to the resistor comes (via the "many connections" mentioned above) via a Blue wire from the hot (unfused) side of Fuse 11.
The +12v comes to Fuses 11, 12, and 13 from the Ignition Switch, which gets the +12v from a small, black Junction Box near the Battery.
The Junction Box gets the +12v via the smaller Red wire at the Battery + terminal connector.

My time is limited right now, but I will help when I can.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

"I checked the voltage drop on the (+) coil and it drop more than 10.5v like someone told me it read 9.3v How can the ignition switch be the problem for that?"

I now figured out it was only the battery that was low, I now have a reading of 12v. When I start the engine and I turn the ignition switch to cranking mode, the coil terminal 4 (the terminal with the high tension wire going to the distributor cap) Reads only 12v continuasly and does'nt creat a spark. Shouldnt it read a higher voltage and creat a spark? I suspect maybe the distributor is bad since I think it's the part which sends info to the ECU to make a spark. or maybe its the ECU. WHat could be the problem and how can I test it?

NEVER try to test the Coil High Voltage with a meter! The 20,000 volts or so will "fry" a voltmeter. Pull the coil wire from the distributor and replace it with one of the spark plug wires, connect a spare spark plug to the end and position it so the metal part of the plug is touching some metal part of the engine. Then, while someone tries the starter, watch for a spark at the "test" plug.

Reading 12v at the coil is good, but you need to measure it while cranking, as I said in my last post. Did you try the Temporary jumper from Battery to Coil#1 as I suggested? If not, why am I here?

Here is what SHOULD be happening:

1) Key ON 12v flows from Coil #15, through the Primary winding to #1, and from there to Ground (as controlled by the Ignition CU (ICU). This builds a strong magnetic field in the Primary coil winding.

2) The engine is cranked by the starter, and the Distributor tells the ICU when a sparks are needed (the Primary winding gets its +12v from a special starter circuit while cranking. Or at least it should.)

3) The ICU the creates the spark by OPENING the 12v Primary circuit (i.e. removing the ground at the coil #1).

4) This causes the strong Primary magnetic field (see #1) to collapse.

5) The collapsing Primary magnetic field induces a High Voltage in the Coil Secondary winding. This HV seeks a path to ground via the plug wires and spark plugs, and jumping the plug gap to create the spark that fires the fuel.

As I said, you may not have a good 12v at the Coil (step 1) while cranking. This is a known cause of problems, especially with a car that hasn't run in years. Which is why I'm asking you to test it and let me know what you find. If it's good, we can proceed to test the other steps.

P.S. Is the 3-wire Distributor Plug round or rectangular (Bosch) shaped?

Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

I checked the voltage drop from coil terminal 15, it read 9.6v then it went up to 10.3 with a fully charged battery. Then I jumped a wire from the + battery to coil terminal 1 and there wasnt any spark, I check for voltage in terminal 1 too and it did the same thing as the coil terminal 15. Maybe the ICU isnt interupting the terminal 1 or the distributor is'nt sending the messege to the ICU. How can I run some more tests. I really want to thank you for all you have done. Only you have continued helping me I really apreciate it. Thanxs! I really have learned alot with you, you explain every thing step by step thats alot of help.

I'm confused. Perhaps it's the difference in language or terminology.

For example, you say, "I checked the voltage drop from coil terminal 15, it read 9.6v then it went up to 10.3 with a fully charged battery."
Was this while trying to start, with the Battery + jumpered to Coil #15, as I suggested last Friday?
If you had a normal 12v which then "dropped" to 10.3v while cranking, that would be a DROP of 1.7v, and probably in the accceptable range.

"Then I jumped a wire from the + battery to coil terminal 1 and there wasnt any spark," I NEVER said to run a jumper to Coil #1. Nor did I suggest this would produce any spark (it won't). I don't know what putting +12v to Coil #1 would do. Possibly damage the ICU.
Here are my words from Dec. 11th:
"TRY THIS: Run a temporary jumper wire directly from the Battery + to Coil + 15, and see if you then get a spark while cranking..."

So far you haven't said if you tried this test or not. I can only guess that is what you were doing when you measured 10.3v. But guessing opens the door to confusion.

Coil #1 normally "sees" only the voltage that comes through the Primary coil winding from terminal #15.
I believe that would be the case with Key ON, until the ICU grounds it and opens it periodically during cranking to create sparks.

"I check for voltage in terminal 1 too and it did the same thing as the coil terminal 15."
You mean it read the same voltage? That would be normal in a static (not cranking) condition, as explained in the preceding paragraph.

"Maybe the ICU isnt interupting the terminal 1 or the distributor is'nt sending the messege to the ICU."
Yes, either is possible

"How can I run some more tests"?.
First I need an answer to my question of yesterday — "P.S. Is the 3-wire Distributor Plug round or rectangular (Bosch) shaped?"
I need to know this in order to describe further testing. With no answer for me to build on, today is wasted.

--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Ok, sorry about before, I didnt understand what you where asking me. I jumperd a wire from the + battery to the coil terminal #15 and as soon as the wire touched the terminal a spark came out of the spark plug from the "testing wire" conected to the coil terminal#4 wich is the one going to the distributor like you asked me to do before, and the fuel pump turned on too. Then I turned the ignition key to crank the engine and a spark did not come out of the spark plug. I checked the voltage in the coil terminal 15 wile cranking and it read 9.3 then went up to 10.5 like I had tested before but you didn't understand. Than I sed to myself let's check and see if a spark comes out when I turn the ignition key to the on position and a spark came out and the fuel pump turned on like it had happend when jumpering the wire. The distributor plug is round with three pins. I hope this is enough info. for more tests.

I don't understand those latest symptoms right now (I'm no expert), but let's go on to test the ICU and distributor. Maybe we can find something.

1 - Remove the round plug at the dist and see if each pin has a thin metal "sleeve" -- supposedly required for good electrical contact.

2 - Turn the Key ON and check for +12v Battery voltage at plug Pin A. When looking at the pins, Pin A is the (upper) middle one (Green wire), B (Yellow wire) is on the left and should read around 5.0v, C (Black wire) is on the right and should read continuity to ground.

3 - With Key ON, Test the ICU switching function by briefly connecting Pins B and C with a small jumper. When the jumper is removed, there should be a spark and the pumps should run for a second. Repeat a few times to confirm.
(If ICU test fails, we make further tests in the next post.)

If the ICU test is good, we test the distributor (Hall Switch).

4 - Reconnect the dist plug, then remove the dist cap and locate circular metal "vane" rotor with the four "windows" that rotates around the Hall switch.

5 - Crank the engine around BY HAND until one of the vane windows lines up in front of (i.e., exposing) the Hall Switch.

6 - With Key ON, simulate the Vane Rotor action with a piece of thin metal, such as a feeler gauge, by moving it rapidly past the exposed Hall Switch. Again, there should be a test spark and the pumps should run briefly.
(If Hall Switch test fails, the HS is probably bad.)

Let us know how these tests go.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

The pins dont have the metal thing to make good contact. Do they sell them? Pin A from the dist. plug is reading 12v but the test #3 failed. When I jumperd the pins B and C and removed the wire there wasn't a spark and the fuel pump did not turn on. I didnt do the other Hall Switch tests because I figured if the ICU failed the other tests wont be much help.

The pins dont have the metal thing to make good contact. Do they sell them?
I don't know. Maybe you could post that question.

Pin A from the dist. plug is reading 12v but the test #3 failed. When I jumperd the pins B and C and removed the wire there wasn't a spark and the fuel pump did not turn on
.
What about the (nominal) 5.0v on Pin B? And the Ground connection for Pin C? (see test #2 again). If all 3 aren't correct, that might explain the test #3 failure.

I didnt do the other Hall Switch tests because I figured if the ICU failed the other tests wont be much help.
I agree with your logic, but we don't yet know for sure the ICU is really bad.
Could be a Pin B or pin C problem,
or any of several potential wiring issues.

They say not to pull the ICU connector and risk damaging the sleeved pins.
Do you think you could "back-probe" those pins?
If so, I can research some voltages to test for.


--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Sorry I havent posted new meseges. I got a new ICU form a 1983 and I finally got a spark. It now starts, runs but when I switch the the Ignition key from the "starting mode" to the "run mode" the engine turns off. It remains running only if I leave the ignition switch on the starting mode. The only things I know are: the fuel pump and the cold start injector are working. The fuel tank is half full too and the engine turns on pretty fast what could be the problem.

p.s. About the other ICU the one not working, the yellow wire (pin b) didnt have 5v and the black wire (pin c) doesnt give a continues ground.

Good progress! As I said in my 3rd post (Dec.11th) there are two circuits for +12v coil voltage — 1 for Starting/Cranking and 1 for Running. On Dec 11th I thought you were missing the Cranking voltage.

Now I think you are missing the Running Voltage. Here are some edited parts of the Dec 11th post (above) —

Once the engine is started, the coil voltage then comes through a Resistor (white porcelain cylinder) near the right hood hinge.
The resistor reduces the coil voltage for cooler running.

(Dec 18th note) You may NOT have the resistor (Blue wire to Brown wire), but the wiring will be the same path. Maybe a bad junction at hinge area. If no resistor, the quick fix is to run a new wire from the source — hot side of fuses 11-12-13 — to coil #15. As a quick test, jumper +12 directly to the coil #15 as suggested for the no-start.)

The Normal running voltage that you are missing to the resistor (?) comes (via the "many connections" mentioned Dec11th) via a Blue wire from the hot (unfused) side of Fuse 11-12-13.
The +12v comes to Fuses 11, 12, and 13 from the Ignition Switch, which gets the +12v from a small, black Junction Box near the Battery.
The Junction Box gets the +12v via the smaller Red wire at the Battery + terminal connector.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Well I dont know if you got my last post but here are the updates:

The car now turns on but turns off when switching the key to on.

I figured out it must be a fuel problem becouse the injectors arent spraying when pressing the plunger.

The fuel pump is running but with a very fainting sound not like the roaring sound it did before.

I dont know how to check the fuel pump presure and need somones to tell me how to check it.

1) "The car now turns on but turns off when switching the key to on."
As I and others have said, this sounds like the coil gets "starting" voltage OK, but then fails to get "running" voltage when you turn the key from Start back to Run.
This is easily tested by jumpering Battery +12v to the Coil #15, so the coil gets direct +12v all the time.
I know you tried that jumper earlier (when it didn't get a spark at all), but have you tried it on this latest condition?

2) "I figured out it must be a fuel problem becouse the injectors arent spraying when pressing the plunger."
Explain please — pressing what plunger? You mean lifting the airflow plate in the Fuel Distributor?
Are the pumps running when you press this plunger?
Did this FD come with the replacement engine?
Do you know how long the replacement engine sat without running?

I wouldn't suspect a pump or pressure problem, because you say that it does start, and fails only when you turn the key back to Run. If the pump was bad or weak, I should think that it wouldn't even start — because at that time, the starter is using so much of the battery voltage.
Maybe the Ignition switch is failing to deliver the proper voltages in the Run position????

You could try another jumper, and force the pumps to run all the time. This jumper would be from Fuse 7 (Left contact) to Fuse 5 (also left contact). Then see if it starts and runs.

3 - "I dont know how to check the fuel pump presure and need somones to tell me how to check it. "
Sorrry, but this requires a guage with special hose and adapter fittings. Some people have ordered it from J.C. Whitney Co. in Chicago, for about $60.00 US. I don't know if that is possible for you or not.

I wish I could be more helpful, but there are so many "unknowns" here (your hasn't run in years, then an unknown engine was installed, etc.) that it's hard to be specific

--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

sorry i didnt post esrlier. My starter broke down and i had to get another one. I jumperd +12 volts to the coil # 15 but it still doing the same thing, there is no difrence. i think it might be that the engine is runing only with the cold start injector and the injectors arnt working. My car doesnt have a resistor. Also my radio stoped working i dont know if it has anything to do with it but oh well. I checked if the coil #15 stays alive when i switch the ingition switch to run mode and it has electricity.

connect a lite bulb from coil #15 to ground make sure you can see it from where you sit when you turn the key if the lite dont lite when you let of the startor look at balast resister looks like cigarette likely crud on terminals- sounds like your new moter and old are different between bosch and crysler- crysler dont have balast resster. sleeves came in 84 avail at dealor parts counter

nope my car doesnt have that balast resistor. Some one posted on my other post that my car was made with a special wires and so did his. Well I finally fixed my car (almost) turns out the plunger in my fuel distributor was stuck. Now the car starts, runs but it's not making alot of succion thus the brakes arn't working properly, it won't stay idle, it stalls and couple of other things. Thanxs to everyone that helped me, I certainly learned alot about volovs. If it wernt for you guyz my car could have been in a junk yard some where.

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!