So we did in fact find that the chocolate milk in the engine was a cracked head gasket. Pistons look good and everything in the head seems in tact. Taking the head to a machine shop tomorrow to make sure it isn't damaged.

Since I'm in there, I assume I ought to replace at least the timing belt and clean the fuel injectors (too cheap to buy new ones... $75/injector), and what all else? I'd like to get some more time out of this car... love to see another 100k miles. It is a 1988 740 turbo wagon with 190k miles. Is this realistic for this car?

Anything you can recommend, please do.

Thanks for your help,

joshua

Headgasket failure is something of an inevitability for owners of the turbocharged B230FT motor. The head is an alloy, while the block is cast iron, and the two surfaces respond differently to heat cycles. This is not an issue for a normally aspirated B230F so long as the cooling system is maintained in good order, but the turbocharger generates substantial heat under the hoods of our T-Bricks and, with time, thousands of heating and cooling cycles take their toll.

One suggestion is that you thoroughly (and perhaps repeatedly) flush the cooling system. If this is an automatic, it would be prudent to flush the transmission as well.

Open up the turbo plumbing and drain the "chocolate shake" oil. Bearing surfaces and coolant do not take well to one another. This presents a great opportunity to check the turbo hoses for tears etc.

If I were you, I would rebuild the "front end" of the engine while I have access: waterpump, thermostat and hoses; timing belt and tensioner; seals and breather box; fan clutch and harmonic balancer; and, new drive belts and accessory bushings.

If you are really adventurous and interested in keeping this car for the long haul, you might consider replacing the oil pump and rod bearings for only a few hundred $ more. Low oil pressure due to a dying pump or spun bearing is this engine's swan song. You might find that the bearings are scored anyway from the coolant.

I noticed that no one suggested replacing the Breather box. It is quite simple when cylinder head is removed. It probably needs to be replaced. It saves all the seals in the engine when the engine breathes properly, by reducing the amount of backpressure in the crankcase the seals don't work as hard.

Leave the injectors alone unless you have reason to suspect them...like they're filthy or damaged.

You might consider a performance cam and variable timing gear. If you have to have the valves ground (we never had valve problems in 270K with our 87 760T, BTW, running amsoil synthetic) you'll need to readjust the valve lash and if the cam has to come off the head you might consider replacing the little rubber thingies underneath the shims.

Since the others are targeting the engine area I'll point you to the odd ball stuff people never think of until it breaks. Front wheel bearings, new brushes and voltage regulator unit for the alternator. If you have not replaced it do it now the radiator, over flow bottle and the heater control valve. The plastic gets brittle over time and snaps at the wrong time. If you have the money and time replace all the bushings front and rear. With 200k the bushings are shot and should be replaced. This will tighten up the car a lot and make the fun to drive factor go up. BTW I changed the rear wheel bearings at 300K on mine. When I pulled the wheels for the front bearings they were close to shot and the brushes were almost gone in the alternator at 200K.

1987 745T M46 318,500 miles
SAAB APC Boost control 14 psi
Bilstein HD's, lowered,
U&L Chassis braces
25 mm sways and Hydras

On the head, replace valve stem oil seals and valve hushers.

Why not be like a pro? The oil pan is a bear, hafta remove one motor mount while supporting the engine with a 4x4 and chain, but rings and bearings are a cinch from where you are. The shop will have the head till friday anyway.Nothing lasts like the 2.3!(turbos excluded)

Turbos included.
--
Jim McDonald

383,000 miles '87 turbo still going!

Consider doing front acc belts, new radiator hoses, new heater hoses and valve, front seals , t belt tensioner and water pump. That should do it to 300k baring a problem with the oil pump.
--
'94 940 150k, '86 240 170k, '72 142 KIA, '70 144 KIA, '69 144 RIP

So yesterday I decided to replace the o-rings on my fuel injectors and wish I could have had the head off when I did it. alot of crap builds up around the fuel injectors and it is a good idea to replace the seals. twenty bucks and twenty minutes later and you are done. I did notice a major difference just doing that. You should easily get another 100k out of your engine.