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We talked about it recently, but I never fully understood what I needed to do... My car has the symptom of upon startup, the amp light remains on and the car runs a little roughly until you rev it above 1500 rpms or so then it turns off and the engine runs better... Usually this only happens when the car has been sitting for a while, but it probably just does it all the time, but I don't notice anything because I just start driving it around when it's warm. Or whatever. Phil you said this wasn't normal? What's the solution then?
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Kyle - '68 142? - Oregon Volvo Tuners?
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That's what I've been figuring for the past couple of years, but Phil spoke otherwise a while back so yeah. It could be the difference of bosch vs other units as mentioned...? Yeah, no biggie. I was just thinking that it'd be easier to start my car if it immediately worked? I unno.
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Kyle - VP of OVT Membership - www.OVTuners.org Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - current setup: 71b20b SUs, m40, bigger list available upon request... ;)
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It's not normal, but it's no big deal either. Don't I remember that you had problems keeping the battery charged, though? Is that fixed?
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Well, the battery stays charged enough... Sometimes I toss it on the trickle charger when I'm at my parent's house for good measure. The dying battery problem I normally have though is just when I leave the car and not run it for a week or more or something. I haven't had a deadish battery for a few months though, so I dunno. It's not really a problem at all for me, i was just thinking if it worked right upon startup, I might be able to get the engine started and running faster. No problems though! I was just wanting to make my 142 "more perfect", hahaha, yeah RIGHT. Perfect my butt. 8^P
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Kyle E.
VP of Membership and Website Administrator
Oregon Volvo Tuners
Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - 71b20b SUs, m40, ask me for more info...
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It may be not normal for the Marchal units, but I toss them because they are too expensive to fix.
I have just one German made Bosch that was original on one of my cars & all the rest I have are Australian made Bosch which are dirt cheap to buy & to fix. They all need to have the throttle blipt after you start them. On my B20's I use Clevland units which have a big pulley for a substantial underdrive & they need to be blipt to 2500rpm before that get excited enough to start charging.
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I've noticed that the Marchal/SEV alternators seem slower to wake up when cold, the Bosch units seem to be a bit more alert. I don't think it is anything to worry about. They just aren't spinning that fast at idle.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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Sounds like a sticky voltage regulator to me.
Have you checked the voltage while it is doing this?
Have you checked the points inside the VR? Sometimes they get a bit
arced and rough and need another shot to make good contact.
Or it could even just be out of adjustment. Should be between 13.5 and 14.2
volts.
The manual says "replace". But there are a lot of things you can do.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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I don't know what the voltage is. I don't know where the voltage regulator is either. I just won three guages on ebay though for pretty cheap and I'll be hooking up the Voltage guage soon to see what it tells me... It has four wires(I think, don't have it with me...) what should I hook them up to? One to the light circuit so it comes on with the headlights(I don't have any interior lights...), one to a ground, one to ? and the other to ? or maybe it's just three, so where do I pull my positive from?
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Kyle - VP of OVT Membership - www.OVTuners.org Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - current setup: 71b20b SUs, m40, bigger list available upon request... ;)
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Look under your hood and see what your alternator is hooked to.
That will be the voltage regulator.
Forget about installing a meter in the panel and get your VTVM and
measure any hot point in the system with the engine running.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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Well, I just wanted the guage in my car anyway, it's not really for troubleshooting, but mainly so I can watch what's going on because I'm curious and stuff.
I'll look into that other stuff though if I get unlazy enough. Or I'll have Shayne do a diagnosis or something because he likes electronical stuff, or, maybe it'd be better said that he's pretty good at it... I don't know if he actually likes it! =D Thanks everyone!
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Kyle E.
VP of Membership and Website Administrator
Oregon Volvo Tuners
Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - 71b20b SUs, m40, ask me for more info...
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It's not a GM alternator, is it? My P220 has the SWEM conversion, and it'll do that. A quick tap on the gas, and all is well again.
How's your battery? If one cel is dying and runs dead after putting out the juice to start the car, then such is a possibility. At slightly higher rpms, when the alternator is putting out more amperage to top back up the voltage, the light goes out. Without computers, cars can still run at lesser voltage.
-- Kane ... one time, in my dad's carburated Toyota pickup, he didn't even know that it was running on 10V, because everything was still working fine!
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While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any information and advice provided was at no cost to you.
6 Volvos in SoCal, from '64 to '94
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I don't know if it is or not... It came on the 74 engine I had in the car originally... So it'd be in all the pictures, such as this one? Is it a GM alternator? I don't think it is...
The pictures aren't of the Alt. but maybe you can make it out?
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Kyle - VP of OVT Membership - www.OVTuners.org Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - current setup: 71b20b SUs, m40, bigger list available upon request... ;)
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