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That I will definitely be seeing more power without my airbox/CAI setup on the car... I just went out for a drive and compared having the setup on, and taking off the top of the airbox and driving it around. And again, not only does it sound great, but it definitely pulls a bit stronger up top. It revs to 6krpm easier, it pulls in first gear to 6krpm faster... My mind is having second thoughts about not putting on some big K&Ns meant for the Corolla... I FEEL that the increase in power will be greater than the benefits of cold air... We shall see when I get on the dyno. I will actually take the complete airbox assembly off when I go to the dyno instead of just taking off the top. This is because the mounting plates and the bottom of the airbox are getting partially in the way of airflow that is trying to go down the throat of the carbs. On the end of the carbs(where the air first goes in), the carb throat is rounded a little bit like an air horn would be. It's very slight, but the airbox and it's mounting plates do not go along with the radius on the carb's throat. If you can understand that at all...?
Oh, and it also feels like there is a drop in low rpm power without the airbox/CAI setup on there. Under 3krpm or so? We'll see. When I go on the dyno I will try making some runs starting at very low rpms, maybe even 1500rpm with a gradual movement of the gas pedal to get to full throttle smoothly. I'm probably going to run in third gear again because I don't know if my rear wheels/tires are up for spinning at 110+mph...
And then forget me saying anything about getting the distributor recurved. I wonder what was going on in your heads when I was planning on getting it recurved...(DON'T say anything! 8^P) Recurving is almost pointless, because as some of you know, the thing stops advancing anyway somewhere around 3krpm, and where I want to be making maximum power is above that anyway. Who care's what's goin on underneath 3krpm, as long as the engine is as strong as it is now, I don't care! So what I did was call IPD, wanted to talk to Shayne, but he was on the phone, so I talked to Eric, and he said that he just put the Perlux in his 122 that needs the dizzy rebuilt, and it runs much better. So since my dizzy doesn't seem to be that bad(if bad at all, maybe I just need to clean and lube it...), I just ordered one up for myself. I'll let everyone know how it turns out next week when I install it!
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Kyle - VP of OVT Membership - www.OVTuners.org Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - current setup: 71b20b SUs, m40, bigger list available upon request... ;)
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the mounting plates and the bottom of the airbox are getting partially in the way of airflow that is trying to go down the throat of the carbs.
Is it an actual Twin HIF6 filter housing that are using?
HS6 & CD175's have 1.625" inlets.
HIF6's have 1.75" inlets, that is half the reason that they flow more air.
The actual point of getting a recurve is mostly that it get an overhaul. The actual recurve part of the process is actually very minor work.
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Actually, I do think it may be a HS6 box because I got an airfilter for a HIF6 box and the filter seems to be a tad too small? Is the HS6 box larger?(lengthwise?)
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Kyle E. VP of Membership and Website Administrator Oregon Volvo Tuners Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - 71b20b SUs, m40, ask me for more info...
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I've never seen a Twin HIF6 box, but I doubt that they would have a different size filter to the other two boxes. If you haven't opened up the holes you will need to. The cheapest way to test this stuff out is to use a stopwatch. Save the dyno time for when you make a significant changes.
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Yeah, I need to get a stopwatch. And about the airbox, I took a look at it and it's the right size. I looked at the HS6s on the 145 too, and dizzam them things are small compared to the HIF6s! The inlet's anyway. Noticeably smaller. And Shayne Green says that the HS and HIF boxes are different sizes. Small difference, but there nonetheless.
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Kyle - VP of OVT Membership - www.OVTuners.org Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - current setup: 71b20b SUs, m40, bigger list available upon request... ;)
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Sub stacks for the SU's might help and they should fit into the airbox. I want to try sealing my airbox with no filters, running a smooth hose like the one used with the intercooled turbos, and mounting a pod type filter behind the grille of my 122. That should leave room for short velocity stacks.
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Lee
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Yeah, I was entertaining that idea. The stub stacks would fit into the stock airbox(as long as the stacks are 2" tall or shorter), well, almost, the rear carb would only have somewhere around 1.5" of clearance on top of the stub stack, not quite enough. Either REAL stubby stacks(the ones that are basically flat, maybe stick up a total of 1/4" to 3/8" or so?) would be fine, or a larger airbox like the 4cyl one that TWM sells would work well also.
And it's not a smooth hose, but I am running no filter in the airbox and have a K&N mounted out front.
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Kyle E. VP of Membership and Website Administrator Oregon Volvo Tuners Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - 71b20b SUs, m40, ask me for more info...
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I think your b-o-m is probably right on. That little narrow snout on the airbox and the accordion tube can't be good for power, and the filter is so close to the carbs that I don't think they can both draw from the whole air supply that's available.
Air cleaners should have zero impact on tuning. If you lost some low end with the box off, you may be able to tune it back in -- try going a wee tad richer on the carbs.
I've got K&Ns on my old cars because that's what fits physically. I don't think they flow better than good paper filters (not enough to matter, at least, and the whole thing about air molecules magically aligning is on a par with fuel line magnets), and they probably don't filter quite as well either.
Later HS6s used wide (2" or more) round paper filters that work really well... I wonder if there are some like that for HIFs???
Now let's see... the guy who happens to be selling Perluxes is the guy who says how much better it makes his car run. Hmmmmm... must be true, then.
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Remember GRM's 122 project? They gained horsepower with the pertronix & even more with the Crane setup. Both were measured on the dyno. Wasn't a lot but every little bit helps. Be careful Kyle - noise sometimes translates into BOM horsepower.
Mike M.
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Can you point to the where they say they got more power? I doubt there is much difference. OTOH, the Crane conversion solves alot of worn dizzy problems.
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noise sometimes translates into BOM horsepower.
I know! My car used to be SOOOOOO fast! Lol. Nah, that's why I was skeptical last time I drove it around without the airbox on it... This time I drove it around back to back switching back and forth a couple times each. It definitely is a bit stronger at the top, revs easier... It's nice!
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Kyle - VP of OVT Membership - www.OVTuners.org Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - current setup: 71b20b SUs, m40, bigger list available upon request... ;)
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Phil Phil Phil... tsk tsk. What narrow snout on my airbox are you talking about? And what accordian tube? 8^P Filter close to the carbs? Mine's as far away as your's is! =D hehe, you knew that... My filter's a bit smaller though, quite a bit smaller.
And yeah, I'm sure it could benefit from being a little richer with the open carbs, more air=leaner mixture, so yup yup.
The filter's I'd be using would be quite tall, so there would be a HUGE amount of filter area per carb, that way there is that much less restriction on incoming air flow.
And about the guy selling the Perlux... I'm a personal friend of his, he's a fellow OVT member, I trust him! So there! I'll letcha all know how it goes, no worries.
Peace! (I'm having fun. Hells yeah, you know it! w000!)
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Kyle E. VP of Membership and Website Administrator Oregon Volvo Tuners Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - 71b20b SUs, m40, ask me for more info...
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Anytime you can replace points with an electronic ignition you will have vast improvements - smoother running, better mileage MORE POWER! Mine went from 26 hiway to 30 and runs just a tish on the lean side. No comparison.
John
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