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How do you set Pertronix static timing? 140-160 1974

Engine swap yesterday. 6 hour shift until new engine bolted up to bellhousing/break/3 hour shift in the evening adding bits. I hope this works out, because I don't want to do it again soon, if ever. Filled with fluids, cranked it a few seconds, then cleaned up the shop and called it quits for the night.

Now that the distributor gear is in the right position, how do I set the static ignition timing with a Pertronix electronic ignition? Will I see a spark at the plug if I rotate the distributor?

Also any recommendations on a re-ring bearing break-in would be appreciated.





--
MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'








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How do you set Pertronix static timing? 140-160 1974

You can run No. 1 plug wire to a spare spark plug set loose on the engine exterior, where you can see and hear the spark jump. The Pertronix unit opens the circuit to cause a spark same as points do, based on rotational position, not on speed of motion, so the engine need not be cranking or running. Push the car ahead in top gear to have the crank drive the cam and oil pump, to take up all gear backlash, and stop it with the timing marks lined up. By hand turn the loosened distributor body opposite to the direction the rotor turns. Where the test spark plug fires is static timing at the timing mark chosen. Then set it with the engine running.

Once you have got that done, check that the rotor tip inside the distributor will adequately register with the correct terminal inside the distributor cap for all positions of spark advance. It might be that the distributor body is in a somewhat different rotational position with the Pertronix unit than it was with the points. This happened to me with an 8-cyl Ford distributor, due to the non-adjustible position the Pertronix unit was fastened to the breaker plate, but it was not enough to be a big problem. I installed the cap as far as possible in the direction the rotor had shifted toward. Very satisfied with the engine behavior with the Pertronix.

Once you have the distributor position set, temporarily mark on the distributor body the No 1 cap terminal position. You can test rotor position for no advance and fully advanced spark, with the engine stopped. Take the distributor cap off. By hand, move the rotor and its shaft ahead against the centrifugal advance spring return pressure. See if the business end of the rotor still is passing by the cap terminal position, because the spark current has to jump between them. You can even test for static distrib body position when a spark occurs, without having the cap on. Run the coil center wire directly to a loose spark plug, not to the cap center. See where the rotor tip is when the spark happens, and that it is not in between two cap terminals.

Charles Greenlaw, Sacramento Cal








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How do you set Pertronix static timing? 140-160 1974

It was easier than that.
Rotated engine to TDC #1.
Took a 12v test light, connected to coil + and ground.
Checked position of rotor, in general vicinity of #1 plug wire.
Rotated distributor until light went on.
Started engine, checked with timing light, was within 5 degrees.
--
MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'








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How do you set Pertronix static timing? 140-160 1974

It's been a while since I had that setup, currently Crane, but I believe you set it up just like normal. Get the rotor aimed at the notch on the dizzy for a baseline and rotate the dizzy from there. If I remember, there aren't any adjustments for the pickup inside the dizzy?? Just mount it and slide the magnet ring over the dizzy cam?
Did you put in a new cam and lifters? If so, then follow the usual routine, vary rpm for the first 20 minutes or so to get a good pattern on the lifters and make sure they rotate correctly. Just don't let it idle at a steady speed. As far as the rest, really nothing special other than make sure you got oil pressure and take it easy for a bit. My re-ring/new bearings/new cam is going great with essentially those procedures.








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I found a good answer to the static timing thing... 140-160 1974

It's called a W.A.G. (Wild Ass Guess).

Same old cam. Previously installed not too long ago, from the specs of it.
Thanks.
--
MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'








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I found a good answer to the static timing thing... 140-160 1974

Pertronix are just "electronic" points so a low wattage light on the "-" side of the coil will still work like before.

New rings? Don't "take it easy," run the snot out of it. Just avoid the edges of the curve (don't lug or overrev). Putting a nice heavy load on the rings help them seat properly. Being a baby is an invitation to blow-by and crappy performance forever.

Just my opinion (from massive reading and some experience).

--
Mike!








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Guess the trick was to whine on the brickboard first. :)
A nice young man from Seattle took it home after he promised to not do anything stupid to it (big stereo, low rider, etc.)
I am still mourning the loss...now for the great Alaskan adventure.
-Erik



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