Yeah, so i wish i didn't make you guys read all this, i mean, i wish it could just be in your head so you didn't have to... But please do read it and let me know what your thoughts on the matters are. I really do appreciate it!

Well, I adjusted the throttle cable and changed the oil and filter and am kinda disappointed. The car doesn't seem to be any faster the harder i push the pedal. I like the long travel that it has now, how it actually starts doing something when you first tap it, and it sticks out more making heel-toeing real easy. As for high rpm running, it doesn't seem to have any pull, i mean it does, but it isn't much more than the weber had on my b20f... That could be partially because of the C cam grind and the 42 mm intake valves, but very likely could be because of a wearing out or worn out cam. Correct? It doesn't seem to accelerate any harder the harder i push on the pedal, i can tell it's trying to, and it is a little bit, but it really doesn't seem as much faster than it was before when i could only open up the throttle about 3/4 of the way(if not even less than 3/4). I'm contemplating getting a new D cam, or maybe IPD's SP cam, (i'd really like John parker's SP cam, but that wouldn't happen for a long time and would cost more...) and then either leaving it like that or also putting on a refurbished F head with new valves and all cleaned up and resurfaced along with an .030 headgasket... I know that the F heads have bigger intake valves(44 mm) compared to the carburated heads, but do they flow better in stock form as well? Or is it just that they are better for modifying for better performance...? Thoughts on what i should do? Or should i just leave it be?

Another thing that may help with high rpm power(and will help with power everywhere in general) is my putting on the aluminum intake manifold and painting some high temp paint onto the exhaust manifold to keep some heat in. Right now my car has the integrated manifold and no heat shields installed(no comment on that please...). I'm expecting quite a decent improvement from the cool air and more smooth airflow that will be provided by the alloy manifold and the cold air tube i will hook up as well.

And then there's the spark plug issue... I'm thinking of running some colder plugs, as in NGK 7s instead of 6s. The reason i'm thinking of this is mainly because my car will run on a bit(shayne had a similar problem with his mother's car and he installed colder plugs and it solved it), and i read Phil's article from Vclassics and it sounded like something that may be a good idea for me, i can't remember other reasons why it sounded good. The running on is probably just caused by the heat from the current intake setup, and the engine actually pings a little bit when it's been idling for a while letting all that heat soak up... Also, what are your guys' ideas on Spark plug gap? I like to use a larger gap, better starting, better sparking longer burning, or something like that, but i know that i've had good experiences with larger than stock gapping,(.035 for example). What gaps are you guys using? Have any of you played with it at all?

And onto the engine fan, i hate the thing. It seems less intrusive now without the weber on there, or maybe it's just the fact that my exhaust is quieter(this is all in reference to highway traveling, at 4k rpms...). But today, when i changed my oil and first started taking my engine up to the higher rpms(6k), it is still really loud, and i can feel the huge resistence it is causing the engine. When i take it out of gear at 6k rpms you can feel the fan slowing the engine down, i swear it! I can't really explain it, but i know it's there, no joke at all.



Ps. The oil was slightly dirtier(although both were black and not really transparent) than my friend's 1991 240SX's oil with 3k miles on it compared to my 582 miles... And actually, you know what?! I don't think it's leaking oil anymore! We shall see as the days go on, but it looked relatively dry underneath my car the last few times i looked... I think my leak may have sealed itself up!!! =D

Pss. I still need to replace the dizzy cap rotor and points and whatever else, condensor and the like. And the new spark plug wires as well. This may all help too...
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (258k, 71 b20b, SU HIF6s modified and rebuilt courtesy of Rhys at Island Automotion, m40, iPd bars, other misc... =D) waits for its engine to get broken in and cleaned up...