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1st paragraph response, and so on:
It isn't going to be black paint... It was going to be some chrome stuff or something that is designed to reduce heat transfer... I haven't actually found the stuff yet, but i haven't looked yet, i've just heard it's out there and i want to try it if i can find it. I KNOW I NEED A HEATSHIELD! That's why i said don't bother me about it... I know the gas can boil, i already know i already know....
The ignition is only at 10BTDC... We set it there...
To check valve lift, can you just put a ruler on the head and make sure that the valves are opening more than 3/8s? I should've tried that earlier, but we were in a HURRY to get SOMETHING in my car and get my car out of his garage as it had already been there a couple days and he's having a baby and getting my car running was a first priority. Yes, I had a K cam(if that's what the 74 b20F engine still had in it, who knows what's in it now, it did have IPD lifters, so I don't know)
-"They would not have put bigger valves and ports in the E and F heads if
they didn't help. They work toward satisfied conventional drivers, not
potential hot rodders."
^ that seems to be a little contradictory if you ask me. Saying that the bigger valves help, which is a no brainer, but then saying that they're working towards satisfied conventional drivers, not potential hot rodders. Which would mean that they aren't working for me, which would kinda mean that you say it isn't a good thing for me... I'm just asking if it's worth the trouble for me to get a new headgasket and put on a refurbished F head, instead of the dirty B head that's on it now. Swap or no swap? That is the question.
And about the oil getting dirty, as if i didn't know... I just thought i'd let everyone know a measure of my oils grossness after 580 miles. I never said it shouldn't be.
About tuning and replacing things. The rotor and cap and crap is considered tune up stuff. My condensor has never been changed. I currently have a distributor cap that is not new, is unknown in age, doesn't fit or sit tightly on my distributor, and is not the correct one. I think that, and the fact that it's a tune up part is definitely more than good enough reason to replace it. And the rest of the tune up stuff as well, for good measure. Ignition is very likely the source of some of my problems, which i didn't go into because I need to replace the ignition parts anyway so I'll deal with that on my own and get it taken care of. If I have a problem afterwards, i'll come forward with it.
Sorry to sound harsh, but I'm just replying to a post that came off as kinda harsh in itself, as if I'm stupid and making haste. The second part would be correct, BUT, the first part isn't, and I don't have much time. The fact that the inside of the motor is warrented had some influence as well. And I'd like to have something hotter than stock anyway. Thanks for getting the seals out for me! And, what do you set your spark plug gap to?
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (258k, 71 b20b, SU HIF6s modified and rebuilt courtesy of Rhys at Island Automotion, m40, iPd bars, other misc.) waits for its engine to get broken in and cleaned up for Dyno and Drag day...
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