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Good for you, that's a job I simply avoided. I don't like removing interior plastic panels until I absolutely have to. It's a lot easier the second time once you know how they're clipped, where to reef/pry and where the weak points are.
I don't know if I could close a 1/4" gap this way, but I was able to cure trunk leaks fairly easily by lifting the seal completely off in a small area, loading some RTV into the seal groove in the appropriate area, refitting the seal leaving it raised a fair bit in the leaking area, closing the lid for a moment to set the seal down, raising the seal very slightly in the areas that were a problem then letting the whole thing cure before closing the lid again. Worked like a charm for me. You can also use layers of tape on the metal lip to build up the seal. Mine was out of alignment because of a rear ender.
For those who may not be familiar, to find leak points, tear newspaper into roughly 4 inch strips, lay them across the seal around the whole opening, close the trunk (or door or tailgate) and see if any strips can easily be pulled out. Adjust door stops, hinges, or hide a little padding under the seals accordingly.
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Dave -own 940's, prev 740/240/140/120's & quasi-expert only on a good day
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