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No clue on which distributor to use. If either one is a vacuum retard, don't hook up the vacuum to it. If the older one is vacuum advance, use it.
I'd strongly urge you to put some sort of point-less (not poinless!) ignition system on it. It just simply removes a maintenance item involved in occasionally setting the point gap and timing. I have a Crane system on my PV and just set it once and never have had to touch it again. When I bother to check it with a timing light its right where I left it.
Manifolds - the 4:1 single downpipe exhaust manifold will strangle a B20 past 4500 rpm or so, at least that was my experience when I swapped the 2.1 liter B20 into my PV and initially just bolted up the little 4:1 manifold and original sized exhaust system. The 4:2 manifold with the 2:1 downpipe is (I hear) as good as most headers are. mate it to a 2 inch exhaust for a stock B20, 2.25 for warmed up, and 2.5 inch for screaming race motor. I'd use the aluminum separate intake manifold, I think the only thing the heated one-piece manifold does is improve emissions ever so slightly at idle. And consumes an odd HP here and there due to the heating of the intake charge. The slight issue will be the slight difference in thickness between the B18 intake and the B20 injected exhaust manifold because in 4 places a washer tries to clamp down on both manifolds at the same time. Either fab up some uneven washers or possibly grind the flange on the thicker manifold down slightly to match where the washer bolts down. If you are finicky you might want to port the B18 manifold slightly, match it to the B20 gasket and the B20 head. I think the ports on the B20 are slightly larger.
I think the best routing on your motor would be to run the fitting from the filler cap to the intake manifold, and the hose from the crankcase fitting to the air filter. If you have no fitting on the air filter or intake system, you could just run this downward for an atmospheric vent. At low speeds (mostly idle) vacuum in the intake manifold is high and blowby in the crankcase is low, so air is sucked in through the little hole in the manifold, clearing fumes from the crankcase, and pulling fresh air in through the other hose (which is why it should be hooked to the air cleaner instead of vented, so it won't pull in any dust). At higher power settings there is less vacuum in the manifold, and blowby is greater so the flow is reversed. The cap hose barely flows any volume (less vacuum pulling on it) and the blowby vents backwards out the crankcase fitting and into the air filter, where it is pulled into the motor and burned.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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