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That agrees with my understanding on the issue. Volvo had the dual diagonal circuit on the non-ABS cars up to the end (which means the double circuit fron calipers with extra bleeders and two flex lines each). Then the ABS simplifed things (hydraulically speaking at least) with a 3 circuit system, with each front caliper having a 'normal' caliper and only one flex line.
I've never really done anything special with the ABS system when bleeding brakes, on either of the ABS equipped cars I've had (other was a '95 Jetta GLX with really nice 4 channel ABS with traction control). Flush the fluid just by adding new fluid at the resevoir, opening the bleeders, and lightly pumping the brakes (it's always a bad idea to ram the brake pedal to the floor when bleeding). And flushing them with clean fluid is something you should do every few years with non-ABS brakes as well, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time.
Over the 10 years and 180K miles I drove my jetta, I had exactly one (1) issue with the ABS. Once the light came on, and stayed on, and the ABS stopped working. Before either taking it to the dealer and forking over the dough, or just pulling the warning light (non-op ABS just means normal braking, there's nothing wrong with driving it like that) I did some simple checks with a multimeter and my Bentley manual, and very quickly (5 minutes, tops) I found a bad wheel sensor. $30 later at the dealer parts counter and my ABS was back in operation.
And with my 245, I noticed my ABS wasn't working shortly after I bought it (no warning light). So I used my Bentley manual and a multimeter, and about 30 minutes later I had found two faults with the system. 1) A burnt out fuse on the surge protector (probably from a rapid car charger) and 2) A missing ABS warning light (naughty eBay seller!). About $1 in parts later it was all working again and I have had a second's trouble from it since then.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t
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