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I've done several 240's and a 760. Tips:1. I used TWO spanners. WHY? Some gland nuts have only two opposite recesses, others have four. Spanners engage those recesses and with conduit pipe as cheater bars, this job is a breeze with PB BLaster. Other tools may damage the gland nut. 2. I installed the spring compressors with the strut still in the wheel well and lightly applied compression. WHY? This compressed the spring just enough to get the strut to swing out from the wheel well. 3. I kept the strut assembly attached to the car while doing this work. WHY? As long as I could support the weight of the strut assembly by wire or ropes, it shortened the work and did so safely. 4. I rigged a brace to attache to the strut tube and ran each end out to the walls of the wheel well. Ends were adjustable with separate pieces of wood c-clamped to the brace ends. U-bolts from the brace center attached around the strut tube. Simple and it worked. I could adjust it for fit and pressure against the walls. WHY? This kept the strut steady from rotating or moving fore and aft. 5. I ordered replacement parts for anything rubber. WHY? Rubber parts deteriorate over time. Likely yours are gone or on their way. 6. When putting the strut back into the wheel well, use the spring compressors as above. WHY? You'll easily get the assembly back in the wheel well. 7. Use a floor jack to lift the assembly back up into position. WHY? Likely you have only two hands, yours, working on this job. The floor jack with the handle in reach makes it easy to slowly lift and guide the top of the strut back up into position and you can use wood wedges to nudge it into place before putting on the three little nuts. HOPE you have marked all of this before removing it earlier. GOOD LUCK!
Once you've done your homework with tools, rigs, PB Blaster and spare pats, this job is safe and easy.
For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
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'83 245 GLT, '92 245DL, '90 760 GLT
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