The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Replacing a 122... 120-130 1966

Really sorry to hear about the accident, very good that you are fine. Depending on the damage, quite a bit is "bolt-on" (I have crunched the front end of mine a couple times, bolt-on fender/hood/nose, paint and "voila"). Rear panel work (or unibody structural damage) is a bit tougher, though still possible (friend had a totaled from rear 122, sectioned and welded a "new" end on, full respray, and it gets shown in shows with no-one noticing!)
Personally like the 4-door 122 best (Still own two!) and say it's a bit easier to work on (space/design-wise) than either the 544 or 1800. Swapping over the mechanical bits is a chore, but really not too bad - that's how I got started in Volvos (and serious car tinkering) - by swapping over a "hot" engine and parts into my 4door 122.
Good luck!
--
66 122S 88 745 90 740T 95 940






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.