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I forgot to mention that the adjustment I mentioned is made by turning a screw that is located between the two prong terminals covered but the connector.
This switch turns itself ON on the increase of evaporator pressure and OFF as it falls to a colder temperature.
I have not cut one of these open nor have I ever tried to adjust one of these before. This must be a factory adjustment place for only the setting the range.
I believe if you turn the screw clockwise, ever so slightly, it will increase the tension on the diaphragm so it will react "sooner" to a drop of pressure.
I think I'm trying to say, the spring or the diaphragm may have lost some tension and it is a reason it is coming "back on" too soon. It needs to cutout at a higher pressure.
The dead band or differential is not adjustable.
Doing this, with a pressure gauge, as I MUST recommended.
It could be the width of the slot in the screw or a half a turn depending on the sensitivity of the switch. A shade tree person might just dink with it and see what happens later.
You might be able to dial the cutoff pressure upwards to warm the coils sooner or so not freeze coils with so much frost. Maximum cooling will be as close as you can get to 32 degrees to pull the most moisture out of the air.
In reality, that is about 38 degree overall coil temperature. A 55 to 60 degrees of output of air from the center vents after stabilization. That is all we try to achieve.
No popping out of snow flakes or ice cubes are allowed! (:-) it's air "conditioning."
Phil
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