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No, you didn't leave it out. You told me in your original post, I just failed to read it carefully. Because of that, I offered the wrong advice.
I'm sorry I steered you to the work of tearing apart your instrument panel, but thankfully I was wrong, and you don't need to fix your circuit board quite yet.
The problem is almost certainly at fuse 13. Going over your post on VolvoForums I see you had looked at this already, seeing 12V or more on the output of the fuses.
Double check that number 13. If the fuse itself isn't cracked or broken, it might just be crusty. Anyhow, if you can't make the turn signals work, there's no power even getting to the cluster, so that blue/red wire may need to be looked at.
Usually the weak spot is the circuit foil; even weaker than the 8A fuse, so that's what gives up. But in your case, I bet the weak spot was corrosion on the end of the fuse. I couldn't see any problem in your photos, so I have to assume you see some old crusty flux at the connector's solder pads as a result of me sending you on that wild goose chase.
Once you get the power back to the turn signals, the cluster will probably come back to life. What killed it (sparks) is using the multimeter in the current (amps) mode by connecting the probe to the 10A socket (not 10V). That makes your probes a virtual short circuit. Current needs to be measured in series with a load.
After getting the cluster working again, start a new thread on the fuel gauge. It might be the gauge itself, but there are some simple tests we can make to prove where the fault lies.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
No trees were harmed in the posting of this message...however an extraordinarily large number of electrons were horribly inconvenienced.
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