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"A voltage check is OK, but it ic current that powers the lights."
Ehm, no. Current and voltage cannot be seen separate from eachother.
And especially on incandescent halogen bulbs designed for 12 V, the rated output is at that particular voltage, which means that when the alternator is running and outputting, say 14 V, you get more power and thus more light (at the expense of lifespan).
Look at Ohm's Law describing the relationship between voltage, current and resistance, and you'll see a mulplier in there: V = I * R.
With a fixed resistance R, change V and I has no choice but to change as well.
Voltage drop in bad wiring and contacts can have a big impact on light output and shouldn't be disregarded out of hand as a possible cause of poor light output.
Now, LEDs are a different beast being run from current limited supplies. But still Ohm's Laws apply. There's just a control mechanism in place that isn't there on incandescent bulbs, and within certain limits the voltage may change without having an effect on the light output. Sadly where I live to this day, retrofit LED bulbs are not compliant with regulations in all but some very rare cases.
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1992 245 Polar B200F M47
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