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Jack -
If I could scan in a diagram, I would, but that's not something I can do, yet. Scanner is still in its box, and I haven't the time to figure out the hook-up or the usage. So, here goes in narrative.
The wire from fuse to the switch can be a 14 or 16 gauge. Connect it to fuse #14 if you want to have fog lights only when the headlights are on. If you want to have them on without the headlights, use fuse #13 which also protects the seat heaters, turn signals and seat belt reminder. At Radio Shack they sell a terminal device that has one female connector and two male connectors that you can put on a fuse to allow two wires instead of one.
Be sure to connect your new wire to the protected side and not to the feed side. Getting into the fuse panel is a PITA, come to think of it. You may be able to use that Radio Shack thing on the back of the seat belt light on the control panel, if there is a terminal there of the correct size. Look for a blue-red wire.
The relay can be from a junk yard, get the power windows relay, one of the central door-locking relays, or the main or fuel pump relay from a pre-1986 240 B23 or B230 car. Get the relay and the base, and get base wires long enough for solder connections. OR, you can look at O'Reilly for the relay and a junkyard for the base, OR from a store called Electronic Parts Outlet for both parts. Radio Shack might have'em, I don't know.
Those relays all look the same, little 1-inch cubes. There are either four or five spade lug terminals, either type will do the job.
The relay/base should be mounted up under the hood somewhere, in a location somewhat protected from the wind, rain, road grit and such. I would think a rail like where the 25-amp fuse is could be mounted in front of the windshield washer reservoir somehow, or maybe there's a spot on the driver's side.
The spare relays I have accumulated in my garage Volvo Parts Department all have a wiring diagram on their outside cover. Look at the one you get.
The terminals #86 and #85 are to the coil, #30 is the armature, and #87a and 87b are the contacts. So - the wire from the switch goes to terminal #86, and #85 is grounded. The fat #10 wire from the battery goes through an in-line 10 amp fuse to terminal #30, and the lights are connected to terminal #87b which is the normally open contact (or #87 if a four-terminal relay).
Here's how it SHOULD work: Turn on the key to position II, there is voltage to the switch. Flip on the switch, a small current energizes the relay coil which closes the contacts. A heavy current flows from the battery through the relay contacts and direct to the fog lights, without a current loss from a long skinny wire.
BTW: THE 10 AMP FUSE is a guess on my part. There needs to be a fuse, but 10 amp may be too low. If it blows, go to 15 amp, but no higher as that's all a 10 gauge wire should have to carry.
If you're having trouble visualizing this stuff, try sketching it out, or maybe get a Haynes or Bentley (at the library??) and see if their picture of a relay helps. Best is, of course, that Volvo Service Manual.
Read the disclaimer at the bottom of this post, and remember that 10 amps can heat a wire up pretty hot!!
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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