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I know that some people restore their Volvos because they like a particular car. But what about other reasons, like the vehicles current book value, but then the later depreciated resale value from holding onto an older used car? ... on the other hand, what it would cost to buy the same car today as compared to its price 15 or 20 years ago? ... what about whether it is being restored by you at no labor cost (is your time a different type of cost?) ... whether it will be rebuilt by pros (what price?) ... etc., etc? I like many Volvos but I also like other cars too. It does not matter to me which ones I restore, but primarily whether I will be gaining or losing the value of it in terms of private book value, although I am open to other reasons for doing it, except self fulfillment. So, how is it determined?
Is this question similar to what non-diyer's consider when they have an older used car. I am considering restoring our 90, 240 sedan. Vehicle was gift (free). Mileage is 147K. The compression is good: cyl # 1, @ 165 psi - Cyl # 2 @ 175 psi - Cyl's # 3, and 4, @ 185 psi. (cold comp test).
WORK NEEDED -
Body - maybe two or three small dents (parking dings, slingshot & marble, or hail stone dents - who knows?), 10 mm dia. X 2-5 mm deep. Small amount of rust on edge of one fender well about about 36 mm long. One mudflap missing a rivet. Some rust under rear bumper of wagon looking from underneath only. Seats on wagon torn at several places. Shifter knob pulls up and off too easily (something wrong). Needs shocks. Most suspension bushings (I think). U joints. Left front caliper. Battery. Suspect faulty Volt Reg. Wiring harness at rear trunk area looks like insulation is wearing off (no electrical problems yet). Front inner fender well needs sandblasting (due to the battery venting its sulfuric acid all over the fender). Front headlight lens has small nick out of one side. Rear main engine seal is slightly leaky (about 8 oz of oil every 500 miles). Steering U joints tight or Rack'n Pinion needs work or replacement. Trans, rear, steering, coolant Fluids need flushing. Front muffler needs small welding at outer entry pipe (small crack). Throttle cable too slackened (stretched out). Door pockets cracked (whose aren't). Rotor carbon tracking (have been emery-clothing it off periodically). Rear trunk lid shock needs welding back in place. Rear headrests. Various sundry clips and interior fasteners.
WORK DONE -
8 new tires (4 Gislaved snows, 4 Pirellis all season). New engine stat. Used Ign module. Rebuilt front caliper and new brake line. Resoldered OD and Main relays. New flame trap (clean obsessively). New CAT. Used, but well functioning O2 sensor. Used but like new exhaust system. New hose clamps. New Cap, plugs, wires, drive belts (all adj properly). New Motor mounts. Some new dash bulbs. Cleaned and lubed all window motors and tracks. Cleaned throttle body well. Adj. kick down cable. New splash pan. New glovebox. Repaired OBD socket.
WORK NOT NEEDED -
Brake pads new. Engine sounds good and runs well (keeps getting better). Dash wires look new. Both ECU'S tested ok. Hoses all in good condition. Radiator sound. Sensors, many engine electrical parts and connectors tested good: (Coil, AMM, CTS, TPS, CSI, Fuel Inj's., Speed Sensor, Wiring looks sound. Interior body no rust or damage. Under body sound, no corrosion. Outer body sound. Heater, radio, temp, AC comp, etc., all function well.
UNDETERMINED -
FPR? Valve Adj? Wheel bearings? Water pump? Charcoal canister? Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump. Rubber Brake lines.
--Bruce
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