|
Matt and I have a little different view of ignition timing, but
it sounds to me like you have a classic case of kicking back against
the starter. That in itself is not a serious problem if it starts
and runs OK. What I suggest for ignition timing is if you have
vacuum advance, leave it connected (simplifies things a lot) and
set your idle advance to about 20° or maybe a little more.
(If you don't have vacuum advance, do the same.) If your idles speeds
up quite a bit, set it back to what is more normal and if you have
to, redo the timing (if it got up into the centrifugal advance range).
Your vacuum advance adds about 9 or 10° so it is about what Matt said.
But when you reconnect the vacuum, if you disconnected it, you may have
to readjust your idle speed and that may mess up other things, so (at least
to me) it is simpler just to leave it connected and allow for it in your
timing spec.
If it kicks back against the starter too hard, set it back a degree or two.
Goo on oil filler lid is probably condensate. You'll be more likely to get
it on short trips in cold weather. A 180° or 190° thermostat helps.
Running the engine like it was meant to run (good and hard) also helps.
A little bit of "lead foot" exercise makes driving more fun anyway.
To check the cam, pull the valve cover and measure how far the valve
spring retainers move when the valves open fully (one at a time). Should
be all the same and should be at least 3/8". If one or more (or all) is
less, you have cam/lifter problems. If you replace a cam, you MUST replace
the lifters or your new cam will soon be a goner. I recommend the IPD or Isky
pushrod and lifter kit. I'm using the IPD 7001/ Isky VV71 cam and am VERY
happy with it.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma
|
