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Craig,
To inspect the temp board, it requires you to remove the instrument cluster from your dash. Remove the headlight knob, dimmer knob, and then pop off that plastic cover. You'll see two screws there. Where the accessory gauges go to the right of the cluster, pop off the gauge bezels (or gauge covers). You'll see two more screws. Remove them. I pull off the steering wheel horn cover to give myself more room to work with (for models with an airbag). Push both turn signal and windshield wiper levers down. Unplug all the necessary cables going into the cluster, and write down where each one plugged into to. After doing this, you should be able to pull the cluster out.
Once that's pulled out, remove the 7 screws that are on the outside edges of the cluster. After these are removed, you should be able to remove the cluster from its plastic housing. Look below the temp & fuel gauges and push that sucker back in and fully seat it. Or, if you want, pull the board out and inspect it.
Unless you did the above, I don't think that there's a way that you could have inspected the temp board to determine it was pulled out... ??
My temperature compensation board was loose (not fully seated in the socket). The gauge would sometimes register and sometimes not. Even when I traveled 400 miles to go upto Atlanta, the gauge not once hit 9 o'clock. In fact, it registered below that a majority of the way. I pulled the cluster one day, and found that to be my problem. Don Foster had posted several messages in the past with pictures on what circuits get fried, etc. on the board... Perhaps do a search on that if you are interested.
Usual symptoms of a bad temp board are spikes in the red zone. When it gets to that point, that's when you have to either replace the board or solder it.
Also check the yellow sensor wire that plugs into Cylinder #2 (?). Make sure that that's not loose.
Good luck...
Eric Staufer,
'89 244DL 117k
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