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I have my trans out and flywheel off waiting for my new clutch and other hardware to arrive.
The flywheel surface looks very good. No scoring, blueing or cracks. Should I resurface anyway? If so, how much material are we talking about and what will that do to spring pressure?
The old clutch had about 1/2mm before the rivets would contact the pressure plate and flywheel so it's a good thing the arm failed when it did.
The other thing is the rear crank oil seal. There is no indication mine is leaking, just a little oil mist on the seal. I know, I've come this far and don't want to have to come here again in a year for a seal replacement, but I guess "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" doesn't apply here and I should just do it.
Reading in Haynes, they say to drive the new seal in a little farther than the one being replaced, ostensibly to have it run on a virgin crank surface. The old one wasn't driven in below the surface of the seal carrier and actually stands about 1mm proud of it. Should I drive the new one in flush with the carrier then? I'll pull the carrier and replace the gasket as well.
FCPGroton came through again for me. The clutch kit (disc, PP & bearing) was out of stock and back ordered but that was the Scan Tech unit. They had OEM SACHS (which I wanted) in stock for a VERY reasonable price. I ordered the kit, rear seal, carrier gasket, pilot bearing, release arm and rear driveshaft boot for under $300. All OEM. The pivot ball I had to get locally and it was $7.
Can't wait to get it back on the road!
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Erwin in Memphis, '88 745t 190,000 miles, '95 855t 92,000 miles
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