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Kind of a silly suggestion, but it really helps to have a spare engine on-hand.
I got a spare B18 with my 122, and I've completely disassembled it for a planned rebuild (which will be my 1st tme doing anything that major). Anyway, my point is that when you have a spare engine or component to look over, you start to feel more confident that you can tackle something like this. I think you ought to take that B20 head, just as a reference model, if not for any other reason.
As PhilS says, don't put a B20 head onto a stock B18 block. The article "How Not To Rebuild an Engine" over at VClassics.com should tell you why. That said, I'm not sure if that valves themselves would be different. If your valves are burnt and you just need some replacements, the B20 valves may work - especially if they have the "stealite" (?) coating. Check over at ipdusa.com for more info on that.
That said, anyway you look at it you'll probably end up pulling the head off and taking it to a machine shop. That won't cost you an arm or a leg, but it is very likely where you're going to end up so unless you need the car tomorrow, you ought to learn how to do it. Keep in mind that you'll need a new headgasket and likely new head bolts, so be prepared to go the distance before you start disassembling.
That is, unless you happen to have a spare engine... :)
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1967 P220 Amazon, 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 DL, 1986 745 GLE, 1990 745 GL, 1995 945....
You mean to tell me that Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?
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