Have a good look at the accordion hose from the AMM to the throttle body, if you didn't already. These get cracks, and let in air that's never measured by the AMM.

I don't think the ign. coils go bad too often.

I'm assuming you've already given it fresh cap-rotor-plugs, and ignition wires are not ancient.

Make sure you have good clean terminals on the 25A blade fuse on fender wall, behind the battery. This supplies the injection and fuel pump system (I'm not certain that there's no other supply for these, but those fuses and holders cause problems when they go bad). You can clean the fuse holder contacts.

First pull the battery ground cable. Then get the white fuse holder free. Pull the little clips on the sides outward, then the top of fuse holder folds back, and you can get at the innards. Or just buy a new holder if you rather.

Also clean up the fuse contacts on the main fuse panel inside the car. Fuses #4 & 6 run the pumps - at least they do on our late-model ones. Can't be sure it's the same on your '83. I like a small knife blade on small Swiss-Army knife. Or if battery is disconnected for safety, a wire brush. Emery cloth on the fuse ends, or whatever you have if you're in a jam.

In-tank fuel pump is a pre-pump that supplies fuel to the main pump. They do go bad, leaving the main pump semi-starved for fuel. You'll notice it most when tank is low, and/or when using heavy throttle.

Main fuel pump does not usually fail by running weakly, but by not running at all, in which case the motor won't run. So that's not likely your problem.
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Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).