When you reset the jets, bring each one up until it's even with the top of the brass tube it slides in. You can easily determine if you have them right by lightly rubbing a finger across the tops of the jets. They should feel exactly the same.

As far as centering the needles goes, all you can do is ensure they fall into the jet without rubbing. You may want to inspect the sides of the needles, looking for any potential wear spots. If a needle gets worn, it changes the amount of gas that is allowed by.

Except for a piston assembly that was dropped on the floor needle first, I've never come across a used needle that needed recentering. If you install new needles, you may want to go through the step, but you're most likely fine with your current needles.

Two complete turns on the jet adjusters is about right. That will get you into the ballpark so the car should at least run so you can make further adjustments.

Remember, DOWN (loosening) gives you more gas, UP (tightening) gives you less gas.

Adjust the linkage between the carbs so that each one is activated at the exact same time as its twin. First, look at the long rod on the linkage. It has an arm that holds the short link down to the carbs. Theis arm should be adjusted so that it's 20 thousandths clear of the metal stop on the top of the engine. When the carbs close and drop off to idle, look at this arm and see where it touches a metal tab right on top. You can make the adjustment at the point where the linkage connects to the throttle pedal - the end closest to the firewall.

Once the linkage is properly adjusted, loosen the two tiny nuts on the crossbar linkage that runs between the carbs. You'll want to have the idle screws set exactly the same on both carbs (try bottoming out the idle settings by loosening the idle screws until they are not doing anything.) Remember how many turns the screws made until they bottomed out, so you cn turn them back to their original settings.

NOW...notice that the crossbar of the carb linkage has U-shaped slots that engage the pins on the throttle plates. You want to adjust the short linkage coming down from the big crossbar linakage so the pins are centered in the U's.
Carefully, without moving anything if possible, tighten down the two small nuts on the linkage clamps.

Move the throttle linkage and watch to see if both throttle plates begin to move at the exact same moment.

There is little you can do with adjusting the choke assemblies. Making sure the choke cables are fully extended (try loosening the keepers that hold the wire tips to the choke mechanism), just make sure they don't bind anywhere, and then adjust the choke fast idle screws until they just contact the cam when the choke is OFF.

While you're at it you may want to check the nuts that hold the carbs to the intake manifold. While I've never found a problem with S.U.'s loosening up, other carbs can and do! If you plan to put a wrench to the two nuts on the underside of the carbs, be careful not to touch the fuel tubes coming from the bottom of the float bowls. They come loose easily, and they are a bear to re-install and make them stop leaking.

If you suspect you may have debris or sludge in the float bowls, now is a good time to check them. All you need is a medium-sized flat blade screwdriver. Remove the three screws and lift the tops up, being careful not to damage the gaskets. You can now clean out any thing that's gotten in there.

OK, all the basics have been covered. Now you need to do the carb adjustments while the engine is running. I wait until the engine has warmed up before I try to adjust anything. You may have to feather the throttle a little until the engine warms up, due to the adjustments being a little off.

With the engine up to operating temperature and the choke off, reach under the carbs and TIGHTEN each jet nut a half-turn at a time. If things are getting noticeably worse, go back and LOOSEN each nut the same amount.

When the car settles down and begins to run fairly smoothly, fiddle with those adjusters independently until you have the engine running as smoothly as possible. Although ideally both carbs should be exactly the same, both manufacturing and wear will have changed them so that you'll have to make those final adjustments separately.

Now that the engine is ticking over nicely, adjust the idle screws until you have it running smoothly at about 600 RPM. I have an automatic, so I adjust mine to about 800 RPM. If you don't have a dwell/tach machine, just lower the idle while keeping an eye on the AMP idiot light. It's OK if it just begins to glow at idle, as long as it isn't a bright light. Some people like to put a load on the generator/alternator by turning on the headlights while adjusting the idle. That will prevent you from having to stare at a bright orange light when you come up to a traffic signal at night!

Working back and forth between the idle screws and the jet adjusters, you should soon reach a point where you're happy with the settings.

If you've made a significant difference in the idle settings between the carbs, you may want to go back and re-set the linkage so they are properly coordinated.

To check for proper mixture, move those little lifting pins a tiny bit (about 1/64" I think...) and listen to the engine. It should increase in RPMs slightly for just a moment before dropping back to idle. Make sure you don't move that lifting pin until the engine has settled down again.

Once you have the proper mixture, you may want to tickle the jet adjusters and idle screws just a bit.

Assuming nothing else is out of whack (what would 'In Whack' be??) you should be able to rev the engine smoothly without stumbling and it should stop when you turn off the ignition.

Here's a trick from an old racer: when filling the oil reservoir in the dashpots, use 30wt engine oil. This will give you the firmest, fastest accelleration.

I know this is a lot to digest, but when you read it over and look at the carbs you'll find that there are actually fewer adjustments than just about any other carburetor on the maket.