Wow, 26! wanna trade? ;) ;)

anyway, I'd try to contribute to this, but it sounds like everybody else knows more about it than I do.

BTW I would try to pick up an Ammeter - Wal Mart carries them and I got one from Harbort Freight Tools (AKA low-grade Chinese closeout company) for 7.50.

The readouts can be nasty to read if you want details, but they will give you pretty good information if you can manage to hold the meter, the two leads, and whatever you want to test. You could try a circuit tester too, or tape two wires to a light bulb (12V bulb - like a brake-light bulb) and see if it lights. There are also directions for a neon lighting tube to see if you're getting impulses from the hall sensor, but it's much easier to just use a voltmeter. You'll see the needle jump up and down consistently if it's working. You'd probably need a second person cranking the car to read it.

Since you have those error codes, have you tried leaving the battery cable off and clearing the codes, then reattaching them? If the codes will cause a no-start for safety reasons, maybe that's part of the problem.

Good Luck
-Will
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond