I've successfully (knock on wood) rebuild my 1968 (6/12) dual cicruit master cylinder. It's been quite an obnoxious chore at time, but I'm ready to install and test

Since my car is a slightly upgraded 67, my brakes are the original single circuit shaefer type. I want to separate the front and rear lines and route them (as appropriate) to my girling booster and cylinder. Using the linked photo (from Old Kombi, I think?), I got the MC and Booster setup properly, but I'm not confident on how the tackle the brakeline re-route. Presently, both front brakelines connect with a single line from the rear brakes and a small brass box located on the firewall near the head. This has an aftermarket brake pressure sensor (working with my aftermarket pedal contact switch) and the main line leading to the old MC.

In looking through my "goodies" I've found several spare brakelines with a couple of different connector types. I also found smaller 3-way brass box (possibly a spare of whatever is used to bring the rear lines together).

Here's what I've done so far. Bolted the dual MC in, connected the pedal, reouted the front brakeline port to the booster and routed the booster-out down to the brass box. I the front lines... Then I ran out of daylight and time). I also tested to be sure the new MC will push fluid through the system (which works fine)

I plan to use the 3-way in place of the old 4-way box. I'm a little concerned because the top port lacks that little internal nipple so the connector fitting screws all the down into it (probably need a crush ring). I'm unsure if that piece will work. I'm thinking that I can find a female-female connector that I can used to patch the line up to the unboosted rear MC port. If that's it, then I need to confirm that my rebuilt MC works and flush the whole system clean. I'll also need to figure out biggie brakelight pressure switch (it's much bigger than the original).

Of course, because this is the car's brakes, I'm extremely paranoid about upgrading and want some confirmation that patching and re-routing the lines will work if I do it properly. Any additional photos (besides the one that I already linked) would go a long way to making feel like I'm doing this right.