1990 740turbo.
Wiring from hell (actually from the dealer that sold it I believe, as are the mismatched trans, ECU, and Ignition Amp, but I don't want to get into that).

My passenger side parking/driving lights have been blowing fuses (#22) for essentially years. Yes, embarrassing, but I've had the car for 3 years and it started 6 months after I "inherited" it from my dad, who no longer drives and before I had any idea I'd ever work on my car.

It was gradually worsening, to what I believe is a straight wire to ground situation. I think that it's the rear tail-lights that caused the problem.

[RANT]

I didn't want to deal with it and I was willing to pay 100-200 dollars to have it fixed and took it to a shop to do it for me and they did Bad Things. They told me they would call after the looked at it- I called at 4:30 and they told me it was done... Picked it up and they charged me 100$ to cross-wire the tail-lights in back, overload and blow my driver's side lights fuse, and replace it with a 20-amp fuse... From my SRS test circuit!!
Needless to say, I'm not going back there and I got uh.. all but the minimum service fee refunded. I ended up paying 37.50 for one new light bulb.
Now, I'm going to fix the D@#^ wiring myself.

[/RANT]

So, I have two ideas on how to ID the wire that is causing the short and following overload.
1) pull the harness connector at the connection point under the driver's kick panel (already had it out and put it back before I thought to do so) and if it doesn't blow a fuse, use a multimeter probe wire to connect each wire until I do blow the fuse.
2) Find which non-ground wire has resistance close to 0... or a resistance that points to a short.

1) is easy but not necessarily going to work. The fuse-blowing is usually instantaneous, but not always and this could be annoying.
2) I don't know what the resistance is going to be for x length of wire vs. a complete circuit except that all the wires (of the same gauge) should have +/- 10% the same resistance.

I think that if I do connect the proper wire for the any lights, and they illuminate, that indicates an insulated, non-faulted wire.

I also thought of option 3:
Determine where in the wire the short is by tracing the path of current with a wire toner (could borrow from work now) or by changing resistance in the wire.

Either way, I'll be running a replacement wire all the way back and I'd like to know if I'll need to do more than electrical tape it to the wiring harness.
I'd also like to know any thoughts or suggestions anyone has, like doing it at night because I'll be able to see the dash, etc. lights come on, which I might assume are not working in the day.

Thanks for any advice, even if it's "sounds like a plan... do it.",
Cheers,
Will
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond